Hello new member here to the forum. I just recently adjusted the valve lash on my ap1. The valve lash was insanely tight and was causing a cylinder 4 misfire. I just recently bought the the car a couple months ago at 100000 miles . I have no idea how long the motor was running like this. I adjusted them to O.E.M specs and now the valves are really noisy. I’ve read that people say the f20c is supposed to have a somewhat loud valve train but the amount of noise mine is making seems excessive. I’ve even went back and tightened the valves a little more and it made no difference in the noise. I be driven it a couple days since and it drives fine and there are no misfires(that I know of). It engages into VTEC fine also. I am worried that the valves being excessively tight for who knows how long has caused any premature wear on the cams etc. Of course I could have just not adjusted it properly the first time and second time but I think it’s unlikely. I am just looking for someone’s input who is more knowledgeable about the f20c motor to help my problem. I might try to post a video soon of my engine running if needed. Thanks

 

You maybe used to the tight valves-low noise tone of the unadjusted engine's idle. Properly adjusted valves are noisier than your run-of-the-mill Honda 4-cylinder engine. For Sure, for sure.

 

That is true the valves were dead silent before I made the adjustment. I’m just not entirely convinced it is supposed to sound the way it is right now. My engine sounds almost like a diesel. I’m currently getting misfires now at idle like it was before. I will try to post a video of it running tomorrow

 

Was it done on a cold motor and to what specs?

 

I try to remember to record the settings pre adjustment and post adjustment when I do a VA. Its helpful sometimes when you are trying to diagnose issues. Do you have those numbers?

If it sounds that bad, and you are getting misfires I would pull the cover and check and record them all, then readjust if they are off. Make sure you are using correct specs. Sounds like you have an ap1, correct?

 

Silent valves on an engine like this indicate there's not enough clearance between the valves and rockers.

The specs are in the Service Manual and are the same for the 2.0 and 2.2 engines. Consensus of skilled mechanics here is to set them at the max clearance as they tighten in use. Setting the exhaust 0.001" overspec (that would be 0.012") on the AP2 engines is recommended.

-- Chuck

 

I did the valve adjustment on a cold motor both times and I set the intake to .008 in and exhaust to .010. My first adjustment was definitely a little off and I had to correct it the second time. I’m thinking it would be good to check them one more time this weekend.

 

Good plan. On the ap1 motor I personally think it if fine to set them on the tight side of spec. Ap1's hold their gaps well. But, on on a 06 and later I would set them on the loose side of spec because they have a tendency to get tight over time.

 

So you would recommend going with .008 in intake and .010 on the exhaust?

 

I don't make recommendations on this because I am not qualified. Here is a quote I saved from a Billman post that is on this board somewhere if you search. I saved it for my own maintenance notes. He is speaking here about ap1 which is what he owns, or owned at the time:

"My . 008 & .010 have held for 100k miles. Made one adjustment from .009 to .008 in all those miles. Be sure you are proficient with feeler gauges with these settings. As stated, tight valves will burn. .007 gauge should float in and out of the intake size with no drag at all.Same with a .009 on the exhaust side. "

Also, this from a Billman post:

"Set them at .008 on the Intakes. .008 should fit snug. tiny force to get it in there. .007 will go in with no drag or feel at all. .009 will take great force or not fit at all. This is called the go-no-go method and is the only way to do it right.
On an untouched s2k, you'll find most of the intakes are at .010 now. Exhausts are likely at .011-.012. Set exhausts at .010 on exhausts. Same go-no-go method as the intakes. Make sure engine is room temperature. "

I use these Billman settings because, while I am just a backyard mechanic, I do feel comfortable using feeler gauges and I have done this a fair amount in the past. If I had an ap2 I would set them on the loose side and I would check them regularly. Its a nightmare if you burn valves with this engine. If I were unsure of my ability I would use the looser side of oem spec.

This whole valve issue with the S2k is such that I plan to check my valve clearances every 30K miles or so, just for peace of mine. If you notice your valve train getting quiet, that is a warning sign. I have not yet checked my "new" 03 ap1. I hope to do that this year. Its only got 23K miles on it so I'm not super stressed about it. But, I do need to do it soon, even if for no other reason than to set a baseline.

I hate to say this, but your description of the symptoms your car has makes me worry there is something going on that a valve adjustment may not fix. I hope that is all it is. Keep us posted!