Non S2000 help needed ASAP
02-01-2001, 08:56 PM
#12
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]10:1 it's the carb dude!
Questions:
Did the car run the last time someone drove it (2 yrs ago)?
Why did humans stop using this vehicle?
Is whatever was busted still busted?
Float bowl got fuel in it (accel pump squirting?)?
Rolling car in neutral?
[B]10:1 it's the carb dude!
Questions:
Did the car run the last time someone drove it (2 yrs ago)?
Why did humans stop using this vehicle?
Is whatever was busted still busted?
Float bowl got fuel in it (accel pump squirting?)?
Rolling car in neutral?
02-01-2001, 10:13 PM
#13
Rev, set the timing static so you are at least close, otherwise you'll be chasing your own tail all weekend. I hate that!
Actually, working on old car is something I miss. Back in those days there weren't so many mysterious things.
You ought to pick up some of that fire retardant jelly for you eyebrows before you start (or not start)
Actually, working on old car is something I miss. Back in those days there weren't so many mysterious things.
You ought to pick up some of that fire retardant jelly for you eyebrows before you start (or not start)
02-02-2001, 07:57 AM
#15
Looks to me like you changed everthing but the Fuel Filter. You may find water in it depending on how full the tank was when the beast was "put away". The lower the fuel level the more chance of water. Also double/triple check the plug wires. It appears to have fired briefly at first from you posts.
IMHO
IMHO
02-02-2001, 09:09 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Utah S2K
[B]Looks to me like you changed everthing but the Fuel Filter. You may find water in it depending on how full the tank was when the beast was "put away". The lower the fuel level the more chance of water. Also double/triple check the plug wires. It appears to have fired briefly at first from you posts.
[B]Looks to me like you changed everthing but the Fuel Filter. You may find water in it depending on how full the tank was when the beast was "put away". The lower the fuel level the more chance of water. Also double/triple check the plug wires. It appears to have fired briefly at first from you posts.
02-02-2001, 04:45 PM
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Once upon a time many many years ago...
Step back and re-check everything, (especially the firing order 
) like you are looking at it for the first time...
I put a new (used) motor in my Ramcharger, a Dodge 318 to replace my toasted engine. I wired everything up and the thing just would not start! It kept sounding like it would almost catch, maybe get a backfire, but woud not run.
I double checked ignition wires, triple checked firing order, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. Finally bribed a "real" mechanic to take a look. He found out what was wrong in about 3 minutes.
Dodges turn there distributor opposite almost every other car I had worked on. So while my firing order was "right", it was backwards. Every time I re-read the service manual I glanced over that part to just check that I had the right firing order.
I double checked ignition wires, triple checked firing order, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. Finally bribed a "real" mechanic to take a look. He found out what was wrong in about 3 minutes.
Dodges turn there distributor opposite almost every other car I had worked on. So while my firing order was "right", it was backwards. Every time I re-read the service manual I glanced over that part to just check that I had the right firing order.
) like you are looking at it for the first time...
02-02-2001, 05:35 PM
#18
Originally posted by pfb
Step back and re-check everything, (especially the firing order ) like you are looking at it for the first time...
Step back and re-check everything, (especially the firing order
) like you are looking at it for the first time...
02-03-2001, 08:09 AM
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Although this is not S2K related I am really enjoying following this post. I used to have fun like this tinkering with an old 69 Firebird. Please keep us posted on your progress and let us know when you get it running. Those engines never die.
02-06-2001, 02:16 PM
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Finally, something I'm familiar with - big honkin V8's with distributors!
The lack of fire right now is almost definitely point gap, or lack thereof. Set it to the specs for your car (usually about 0.028 inches) with a feeler gage by rotating the dist shaft (bump the starter) until the cam for the points is in the maximum-lift position. Adjustment to the specs can be made at this point. Dwell is something you live with after setting the point gap.
The starting problem is almost definitely the lock-out switch on the transmission or the wiring to that switch, which is why it turned over after you put it in neutral to roll it. The old engines with automatic transmissions will start in neutral and park if the switch is working correctly.
The rotation of the rotor button while turning the starter over solves the firing order question. (clockwise or counterclockwise). Get the plugs wires right first.
Did you pull the whole distributor out of the block when changing the wires, points, cap, rotor, etc.? If so, you could have reinstalled it 180 degrees off since that's easy to do. The rotor button will also usually fit 1 of 2 ways (180 degrees difference), depending on how it's indexed to the dist shaft. To get the ignition timing in the ballpark, bump the starter until the timing marks on the crank are lined up with the pointer on the block. Then pull the cap off of the distributor and note which plug is firing at that time (should be number 1 or number '?' since each plug fires only once per 2 engine revolutions). The '?' depends on your engine's firing order, and it should be the 5th plug to fire in the sequence. If it's not on number 1 or number '?', adjust the distributor until it is on number 1 or number '?'. Try to start the engine again at this point. If it still doesn't start, try the other plug by rotating the rotor button -or- distributor 180 degrees. Good luck with it.
Mike
The lack of fire right now is almost definitely point gap, or lack thereof. Set it to the specs for your car (usually about 0.028 inches) with a feeler gage by rotating the dist shaft (bump the starter) until the cam for the points is in the maximum-lift position. Adjustment to the specs can be made at this point. Dwell is something you live with after setting the point gap.
The starting problem is almost definitely the lock-out switch on the transmission or the wiring to that switch, which is why it turned over after you put it in neutral to roll it. The old engines with automatic transmissions will start in neutral and park if the switch is working correctly.
The rotation of the rotor button while turning the starter over solves the firing order question. (clockwise or counterclockwise). Get the plugs wires right first.
Did you pull the whole distributor out of the block when changing the wires, points, cap, rotor, etc.? If so, you could have reinstalled it 180 degrees off since that's easy to do. The rotor button will also usually fit 1 of 2 ways (180 degrees difference), depending on how it's indexed to the dist shaft. To get the ignition timing in the ballpark, bump the starter until the timing marks on the crank are lined up with the pointer on the block. Then pull the cap off of the distributor and note which plug is firing at that time (should be number 1 or number '?' since each plug fires only once per 2 engine revolutions). The '?' depends on your engine's firing order, and it should be the 5th plug to fire in the sequence. If it's not on number 1 or number '?', adjust the distributor until it is on number 1 or number '?'. Try to start the engine again at this point. If it still doesn't start, try the other plug by rotating the rotor button -or- distributor 180 degrees. Good luck with it.
Mike