Well trying to install ridged collars. The front went well with the exception of one of the longer ones. It bound up a bit on the way out, but eventually I got it. Same deal in the rear with the forward most right rear, unfortunately after getting it about an inch out it snapped. Right now I have about an inch hanging down. I really think my only option is dropping the subframe and hoping to use heat and big vice grips on the end left sticking out. If this doesn't work drilling it out is an option but as long as that bolt is I am not sure how well this can be done.

What are are anyone's thoughts about running it with 5 bolts possibly trying to get a ridged collar on the stud for additional support. Basically with the collars and stud sticking down the shear force should be accounted for, the remaining 5 bolts would just hold the sub frame up.

 

Remove the subframe, weld a nut onto the remaining stud and remove the stud while it's still warm

 

^^ works every time

 

so you are against going with bolts securing it, technically 6 studs though (the broken one would drop into the subframe)

 

Could work... But I would'nd try it.

Just support the engine, loosen the steering rack + engine mounts (plus some other stuff probably) and lower the subframe. Should'nt be that much work

 

how did you go about loosening the subframe bolts that caused it to snap? breaker bar or did u use an impact? I loosened all of my subframe bolts during the collar install with my 1/2 inch impact no problem

 

It is the rear and just broke the other one, so the subframe has to come off and I guess I try welding a bolt to it. These bolts are an awful design the way they have 2 steps to them. I really don't know what I will do if welding a bolt to them doesn't work.

 

Breaking an M12 bolt like these would take a crazy amount of torque. With the bolt already extracted an inch before it broke, did it suddenly suddenly get really difficult to remove or was is persistently difficult to turn that entire length? For subframe bolts (abeit on other cars) that are difficult to turn, it's usually due to corrosion on the threads trying to run though a nut. The only time I've broken these is trying to use a breaker bar to continuously remove them. If i remove a bit, then thread the bolt back in, then out a bit more, then back it, it generally gets me closer and closer to extraction without a crazy amount of torque. Not sure where you're from, but here in Nova Scotia we have the worst corrosion conditions possible (warm/wet/salty), and i can still get bolts out from a 20 year old dodge neon with this technique.

I suppose this doesn't help you now, but maybe it will in the future. just don't drive the car with 5/6 bolts!

 

I actually broke both the rear 19mm. Both were using a breaker bar and both were about 1.5 inches out when they became impossible to move. Both felt like they were coming but in reality it was the bolt twisting in half. Admittedly it was stupid to break the second, but at that point I already decided that I was dropping the subframe, so aside from welding a nut into two instead of one I didn't create much more work for myself, unless they don't come out then I am screwed. Anyone have any perspective how likely welding on a nut is to work and if it doesn't what to do next?

 

Actually looking online it seems these bolts are not like the ones on the front subframe and are much shorter. According to what I could find they are 107mm, so if that is correct I only have about an inch stuck in the car and it may not be as bad as I think. Can anyone confirm the length of these bolts?