J.nguyen

bout 2 do oil pan removal/install.. gettin all my procedure verified first so dont run into any delays while in process..

oil pan coming in on monday..

so ive been researching and found this is procedure:

take off bolts, take off AC bracket taht connects to pan

remove old sealant with razor blade

spray / degrease new oiil pan with (what product? brake cleaner?)

put ac bracket onto new oil pan and put honda bond RTV evenly on it

put back on the oil pan and start from mid and work way out doing an X pattern as with lug nuts. making sure just puttin on bolts first, then using ratchet later..

(i dont have torque wrench so hand tight will be a sufficient guess?)

wait 24 hours, then put in new oil / filter.

also i hear theres 2 new bolts that were replaced in newer models.. should i get these bolts too since i have oil pan dropped anyways?

iam7head

not sure about the a/c bracket thing but you don't want to use a sharp edge to clean off old gasket, if you nick the surface, you'll have a leak.
scrotchbite(sP) pad or similear rubbing/scrubbing pad are perfect for this job, it migh take longer but at least you don't have to fix a leak down the road.

and please, get a small torque wrench, the bolts are ultra light duty and loves to snap. you can get one for around 30-50 bucks, make sure it's the small/beam style wrench, not the big twistie bar type. or better yet a snap-on digital, that's what we use around the shop

the idea to degrease the block is to have a clean and even mating surface to the new oil pan, which is very important for the RTV to bond. simple green will do.

J.nguyen

ac bracket thing, i researched and someone asked about 2 bolts that were extremely hard to reach so he had to remove a bracket.

ic, ok scrtoch bite pad.. any solution used with it? water?

oh i meant cleaning the new oil pan (since im buying it used, its not actually new, i just refered to it as"new" so ppl wont get confused what im doing)

but im assuming ur suggesting simple green the block area also that will come into contact with the oil pan? and also simple green the "new" oil pan thats going back in..?

iam7head

the only area you have to make it spotless is the mating surfaces, a even and oiless surface for the rtv to bond.

you can clean the pan with simple green too, just rinse it off and dry off any water after

good luck

iam7head

any reason for you to swap the pan in the first place? if you ran over something, go ahead and check the rear sump oil pump while you at it

J.nguyen

i baught the car from a person out of state, 4 hours later after i moved the car, i see a pool of oil on the floor.. jack car up find out its the drain bolt thats leaking ..

whoever did last oil change over tightned it and strpped it..

dont want to go risk of re-tap and then later have it pop out.. taking high road safe way for peaceof mind..

Ic, thanks for the info! wish me luck

iam7head

i see, yeah, hot aluminium loves to strip if you put enough pressure to it.

Billman250

There are 4, sounds like you are talking about oil-jet bolts. They were changed in mid 2002.

Unless you are going FI, it's not a panic to change them.

If you do, a GOOD torque wrench is critical on these bolts.

ChefJ

Yep and good luck with the one up front by the pickup.

J.nguyen

nvm i wont be changing them, just ognna change oil pan.. aha