S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Oil pressure outlet

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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 09:45 AM
  #11  
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Ouch. Good luck with that. I think welding is the only way to go. Have you messed with that fitting before? What did you use?
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 04:34 PM
  #12  
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JB weld holds up well if you are on a tight budget. I know its not the best way but removing the engine is a lot of $$$$$$.
Good luck!
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 04:34 PM
  #13  
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Just got back from some machine and welding shops. Pretty much they want the block out of the car. If i buy a used block how much should i pay?
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 05:24 PM
  #14  
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There's a guy selling one needing a rebuild in the for sale section.

I'd JB weld it and save my money for a more permenant solution. I've never actually seen a good S2000 block for sale but, I'll bet it's worth $500. Have you checked whether honda sells just the block?
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 05:32 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Ek9,Sep 30 2006, 07:24 PM
There's a guy selling one needing a rebuild in the for sale section.

I'd JB weld it and save my money for a more permenant solution. I've never actually seen a good S2000 block for sale but, I'll bet it's worth $500. Have you checked whether honda sells just the block?
They have an option online to buy one for 1300 but you still have to have it put together.
For an extra 700 you can have a whole new bottom end; complete.
JB weld should hold well. I had used it on my motor when my oil relocator busted open on the dyno. Lasted for two years until I removed it .
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #16  
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I don't think JB weld is rated to take 100+ psi of oil pressure trying to push it back out. Try at your own risk. A full pessure oil leak will empty the pan very quickly and certainly damage the engine if you continue to run it.

$7 on JB weld to fix it cheap. If it fails you'll be out around 3K.

Or you can pull the motor and have a machine shop weld and retap the hole for much less than 3K.

Seems like a pretty easy $$ question to me.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #17  
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Here is some product info.
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php


More here too
http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php

I know its not like a new block but it is an option till he can get his block out.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #18  
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You also need to make sure the metal is free of any oil, which wil be difficult given it's location. I've JB welded low pressure fittings in my Aftercooler before. I just wouldn't take the risk on a engine. I doubt a shop that has to warranty it's work would either.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 06:18 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by chrisesteban,Sep 30 2006, 09:55 AM
sSo i have to pretty much take the motor out and rebuild. How much should i spend on a used block?
I'm still not understanding why you are considering ditching your engine for a used one. You say you were only down 3 qts or oil when you discovered this leak. I've seen a couple of engines go down that much oil and they are still running just fine. Why do you think your engine is toast? If you have to take out your engine anyway, why not fix it and put it back in? I think you know the condition of your own engine far better than the history behind some other used engine. Unless you know something about your engine you haven't told us, I see no reason why you wouldn't just repair the damaged part and carry on.

As an aside, if it were me (and I can be a bit of risk taker sometimes), I'd have that crack and hole welded completely shut, but weld in some kind of hollow tube at that time. Adapt the end of the tube to fit the oil pressure sender (or to a flex hose first) and see what happens. Since that is an "out" for the oil, there can't have been much in the way of debris going into that hole. Would I be nuts?
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 06:22 PM
  #20  
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I'm still willing to bet something besides the stock pressure switch was screwed into the block at some point. Possibly the oil feed for a Vortech SC or turbo maybe a gauge sender.
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