Finally got all the parts and tools necessary to upgrade my MY01 to AP2 retainers/keepers and the upgraded oil jet bolts. Two Saturdays worth of blood, sweat, and tears and its all back together minus the valve cover (I'm going to repaint it) I quadrupled checked when I set the cam gears but I wanted to check with the community and make sure I set the timing right before I crank it up. Thanks!

The old and parts


Cracked intake retainer on cylinder #1 - I've never mis-shifted, must have been one of the previous owners. The guy I bought it from said he never did a money shift. Luckily none of the other retainers were cracked. The rest were perfect.


How I set timing at TDC #1 Is this correct?

 

looks close enough. Did you use a screw driver? what was the cost for the retainers/keepers and banjo bolts?

 

a screw driver on what? the bolts and keepers I got from majestic honda and the 8 retainers from a fourm member for 25$ shipped

 

Nice pic of the broken part. I need to check those at some point.

How difficult is the banjo bolt job? Have had the new bolts for 3 years, but seems like a big job.

 

Did you adjust the valves? I think previous commenter was asking if you used a screwdriver for the valve adjustments or if you had the special tool...

 

No. I meant did you use a screw driver to do the TDC on cylinder 1. If you are not sure that your timing is right, then you can pull your spark plug out of cyl 1 and stick a long screw driver down the hole until it touches the piston. Then turn the crankshaft clockwise until the screwdriver comes all the way up then stop when it starts to go back down. Then check your timing marks if its pointing at each other. If it is, then your timing is at TDC, if not then do it again.

 

Thanks for the tip franky. I did the screw driver thing a few times and I have some questions.
Once the screw driver hits the top it seems to stay up for a few teeth as I crank and the cam marks are pointing at each other however as the screw driver begins to dip the marks are off. Is TDC when the piston is going down or when the piston is up and stays up for a tooth or two? Thanks! Also the best prices I could find are from http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com



The banjo bolt job was less technical compared to doing the retainers but threading cylinder #1 bolt was scary as I didn't want to cross the threads and destroy the block. If you do the bolt swap make sure you thread everything finger tight before you put your wrench on it. Also start with cylinder #1 and I used a universal socket with electrical tape wrapped once around the joint no flex shaft as I couldn't find one at Sears. It took me a while to feel when I had started the threads on #1 but after that the other 3 are a piece of cake.

 

its when the piston stays up. Align the marks on the cam gears so they are pointing towards each other. If you turn it past the marks alittle bit, its okay to turn it back to align it. Then make sure the marks on the cam chain spocket is straight with the cylinder head surface. It should be straight if the cam gear marks are line up. They all should line up straight. If not, just tweek it either way to get it line up.

Here's a link with a pic of TDC. Scrow down untill you see the big picture.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2159702

 

Thanks franky, this info assures me I've done it right. Have a good one!

 

Well crap the car won't start.

What would be the troubleshooting procedure?


Bleh, guess I'll just disassemble again and reset the camshafts. I think I'm off a tooth on both.