overreving issues- ?
#1
Thread Starter
overreving issues- ?
I went from 3rd to 2nd (instead of 4th) for about a 1 second....long enough to figure out I did something wrong........... i then drove the car for the rest of the day with zero problems..... my tach doesn't work so i have no idea how high it went.....
I just talked to Jeff at Ganley and he mentioned something about dropping a valve down the road..(maybe not right now but he indicated I may have started the problem.?) ... for about $100-$150 I could pay somewhere to pull off my valve covers and cams to check it all out.?
Or I could just ignore it...... what are some signs of damage? The car seemed to run fine afterwards......no smoke, etc......
Anyone else do a quick overrev but not have any problems down the road? It is track only so it will mostly see 6000rpm-9000rpm.
thanks
I just talked to Jeff at Ganley and he mentioned something about dropping a valve down the road..(maybe not right now but he indicated I may have started the problem.?) ... for about $100-$150 I could pay somewhere to pull off my valve covers and cams to check it all out.?
Or I could just ignore it...... what are some signs of damage? The car seemed to run fine afterwards......no smoke, etc......
Anyone else do a quick overrev but not have any problems down the road? It is track only so it will mostly see 6000rpm-9000rpm.
thanks
#2
Not knowing just how high your rpms got to, this is really difficult to say. Pulling the valve cover and doing an inspection may not tell much. Hairline fractures cannot be seen with the naked eye anyway. I suppose you could do a compression and leak down test to see if any of the valves got dinged or bent.
#3
Current anecdotal evidence suggests that the retainers are the weak point. They normally crack before they split and drop the valve. So if you do pull the valve cover, check for cracks in the retainers as best you can. If you find any with cracks, I'd replace all of them (and perhaps go for uprated ones.). I doubt you'd notice any difference in the engine with just cracks - until it fails completely and drops a valve.
Since your tach doesn't work, hopefully you weren't at too high an rpm when you miss-shifted.
-Brian.
Since your tach doesn't work, hopefully you weren't at too high an rpm when you miss-shifted.
-Brian.
#5
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how can you drive a car like the s2000 without the use of a tach??? not trying to flame, it just seems odd to me.
at the least i'd drop a $100 on an aftermarket one and wire it up, if i didnt feel like fixing the computerized one.
anyhow, i'd keep an ear open for more noise from the engine bay. if it starts to sound more and more like a sewing machine, you need to get it looked at.
at the least i'd drop a $100 on an aftermarket one and wire it up, if i didnt feel like fixing the computerized one.
anyhow, i'd keep an ear open for more noise from the engine bay. if it starts to sound more and more like a sewing machine, you need to get it looked at.
#6
Thread Starter
It seems like the engine runs fine...... just thought I would check. I don't really want to "drop a valve" or something goofy like that and have to go find a new engine (no warranty on this one).
i do remember a guy misshifting at the track...i think he went 5th to 2nd and basically toasted everything and got trailered home......... I am sure there was some bullshitting going on when he got to the dealer!
i do remember a guy misshifting at the track...i think he went 5th to 2nd and basically toasted everything and got trailered home......... I am sure there was some bullshitting going on when he got to the dealer!
#7
Thread Starter
shift light.
I can adjust it to 8000, 8200, 8400, 8600 and 8800.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by redsound
how can you drive a car like the s2000 without the use of a tach???
I can adjust it to 8000, 8200, 8400, 8600 and 8800.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by redsound
how can you drive a car like the s2000 without the use of a tach???
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#9
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shift light only tells you it is time to shift.... not actually doing so.
besides, after driving the car for awhile, you shift by the sound. i always get mad when i have to drive with the top up, sounds different....
unless you were at a higher speed, 3-2 instead of a 3-4 is more embarassing than it is a big problem.
most other people have said that after a similar mechanical overrev, car did not make it far before dying.
i would think you are ok, but if it is a track only car, you are likely to be a little harder on it anyway, the small amount of money they quoted as a preventive check to avoid later catastrophic loss would be money well spent.
keith
besides, after driving the car for awhile, you shift by the sound. i always get mad when i have to drive with the top up, sounds different....
unless you were at a higher speed, 3-2 instead of a 3-4 is more embarassing than it is a big problem.
most other people have said that after a similar mechanical overrev, car did not make it far before dying.
i would think you are ok, but if it is a track only car, you are likely to be a little harder on it anyway, the small amount of money they quoted as a preventive check to avoid later catastrophic loss would be money well spent.
keith
#10
Thread Starter
ya..i think if it costs me $100 or so for some peace of mind then that is a good $100..... it is most likely ok, but it was probably at 12000rpm for a fraction of a second.....
[QUOTE]Originally posted by KAMcDonald
shift light only tells you it is time to shift....
[QUOTE]Originally posted by KAMcDonald
shift light only tells you it is time to shift....