P0411: Cause - Conidtions - remedies?
Okay so I have the infamous P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow.
I want to solve my problem here. It occurred after I did my clutch.
I will tell you what I have checked to ensure it was all correct.
1. I checked to make sure the check valve was not backwards.
2. Checked the vacuum lines they're all correct.
3. Solenoid was connected correctly, I also added dielectric grease.
4. No vacuum lines are pinched.
5. Removed bumper last night, the pump looked great, i hear the pump turn on after about 2 seconds of the car starting.
6. I checked the terminals at the pump and its relay, one has some corrosion I put dielectric grease on it and moved it in there.
Problem came back today after a cold start ;\
This is a diagram for you all as well.

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What I am going to do. I will take the solenoid off and test it and see if I can hear it opening or not, also maybe will blow some air through it, also I will blow air through the check valve to make sure it is operating.
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Notes: I read somewhere if you take the hoses off the solenoid and cross them up it will make it go away, this does not work.. I did that and got a CEL light on the first start.
I want to solve my problem here. It occurred after I did my clutch.
I will tell you what I have checked to ensure it was all correct.
1. I checked to make sure the check valve was not backwards.
2. Checked the vacuum lines they're all correct.
3. Solenoid was connected correctly, I also added dielectric grease.
4. No vacuum lines are pinched.
5. Removed bumper last night, the pump looked great, i hear the pump turn on after about 2 seconds of the car starting.
6. I checked the terminals at the pump and its relay, one has some corrosion I put dielectric grease on it and moved it in there.
Problem came back today after a cold start ;\
This is a diagram for you all as well.

--------------------------
What I am going to do. I will take the solenoid off and test it and see if I can hear it opening or not, also maybe will blow some air through it, also I will blow air through the check valve to make sure it is operating.
---------------------------
Notes: I read somewhere if you take the hoses off the solenoid and cross them up it will make it go away, this does not work.. I did that and got a CEL light on the first start.
Back from a few tests.
The check valve allows air to move (right ) from the picture above, it cannot go left at the check valve, and it opens and closes at it should.
The solenoid opens and closes as it should and lets air through it.
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I am not sure where to turn next..
The check valve allows air to move (right ) from the picture above, it cannot go left at the check valve, and it opens and closes at it should.
The solenoid opens and closes as it should and lets air through it.
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I am not sure where to turn next..
I pulled the fuse and everything redid everything looked for cracked twisted, unconnected hoses nothing was found. The one plug that had corrosion, i really think this was the issue, i may pull the inner fender back and clean that more.
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If anyone has anything they would like to add that would be great.
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If anyone has anything they would like to add that would be great.
Theres a large hose running from the air pump all the way to the back of the intake manifold, to a large valve. Check this hose.
This valve is controlled by one of the little vac lines from the little valve, if you follow it back.
This valve is controlled by one of the little vac lines from the little valve, if you follow it back.
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Originally Posted by Billman250,Sep 28 2010, 03:45 AM
Another test:
Run car for a minute, turn off.
Wait 5 minutes, then disconnect one vac line going to the vac res under the air box. Make sure it is holding vaccuum.
Run car for a minute, turn off.
Wait 5 minutes, then disconnect one vac line going to the vac res under the air box. Make sure it is holding vaccuum.







