Possible clutch/CMC problem?
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Possible clutch/CMC problem?
Good morning havent posted for some time.
My trans in my MY00 (85k) recently started grinding 2nd 3rd 4th unfortunately and a rebuild on that trans was out of my budget. I found trans with 60k on it for $400 and put it in.
Now the little grind is gone but it still feels somewhat chunky going into 2nd and sometimes other gears (I heavily greased the shifter). A few years ago I replaced the clutch and about 500 miles after that I noticed a strange noise. Pulled it all apart and found that the throw out bearing on the clutch fork had pretty much torn itself apart internally.
When i swapped the trans I didnt pull the clutch out again because it only had probably 3k on it. Could it have come apart again? Or am I having some other problems with the CMC or slave?
The clutch is nothing special just a standard replacement, I think i may have ordered it from carquest.
thank you,
Andrew Anderson
My trans in my MY00 (85k) recently started grinding 2nd 3rd 4th unfortunately and a rebuild on that trans was out of my budget. I found trans with 60k on it for $400 and put it in.
Now the little grind is gone but it still feels somewhat chunky going into 2nd and sometimes other gears (I heavily greased the shifter). A few years ago I replaced the clutch and about 500 miles after that I noticed a strange noise. Pulled it all apart and found that the throw out bearing on the clutch fork had pretty much torn itself apart internally.
When i swapped the trans I didnt pull the clutch out again because it only had probably 3k on it. Could it have come apart again? Or am I having some other problems with the CMC or slave?
The clutch is nothing special just a standard replacement, I think i may have ordered it from carquest.
thank you,
Andrew Anderson
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 8,775
Likes: 1,879
If you didn't use a Honda throw out bearing, it could very well go bad very quickly. The non-Honda clutch parts are mostly junk. But a bad TO bearing is usually easy to diagnose, and rough shifting felt in sift lever isn't a typical symptom.
Did you swap to an ap2 trans? They have better syncros, which is what you feel when shifting gets rough, bad syncros.
You may have had a clutch hudraulic problem all along, not a trans problem. Replace the fluid, and do a gravity bleed. See how much that improves things.
Did you swap to an ap2 trans? They have better syncros, which is what you feel when shifting gets rough, bad syncros.
You may have had a clutch hudraulic problem all along, not a trans problem. Replace the fluid, and do a gravity bleed. See how much that improves things.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 268
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If you didn't use a Honda throw out bearing, it could very well go bad very quickly. The non-Honda clutch parts are mostly junk. But a bad TO bearing is usually easy to diagnose, and rough shifting felt in sift lever isn't a typical symptom.
Did you swap to an ap2 trans? They have better syncros, which is what you feel when shifting gets rough, bad syncros.
You may have had a clutch hudraulic problem all along, not a trans problem. Replace the fluid, and do a gravity bleed. See how much that improves things.
Did you swap to an ap2 trans? They have better syncros, which is what you feel when shifting gets rough, bad syncros.
You may have had a clutch hudraulic problem all along, not a trans problem. Replace the fluid, and do a gravity bleed. See how much that improves things.
Ill do that, could you give me a run down how to do the gravity bleed on this system? Ive always done it the standard way.
thank you
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Is the clutch properly adjusted? Does the clutch engage when the pedal is just barely off the floor? If so....it shouldn't.
What fluid is being used in the trans?
Carquest clutch set :'(
What fluid is being used in the trans?
Carquest clutch set :'(
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 268
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Honda MTF.
Its an exedy clutch
thank you =)
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Both the clitch rod adjust and gravity bleed have DIY instructions on this forum. Both are easy to do.
The clutch rod, you need a 12mm open end wrench, flashlight, and a flexible back. Wiggle yourself under the dash, and on the clutch pedal linkage you will see a rod that goes into the back of the clutch MC on the firewall. Lossen the locknut on this rod, and turn rod until there is no play, stop as the rod just starts to push on and move the MC. There is enough play inside the MC to allow zero play in the linkage.
Gravity bleed is so easy. Just place a clear hose onto bleeder nipple, loosen the bleeder (10mm wrench), and wait. Wait until the fluid comes out clean, or if you started with clean fluid, until the bubbles stop.
Its VITAL that during this process you never let the fluid in MC get low, otherwise you will add air, in the worst spot that is most difficult to bleed out. So keep checking it, and keep it topped up during the bleed.
If your fluid is dirty, before you open bleeder start by turkey basteing out as much old fluid as you can, then wipe up the rest and wipe inside clean with paper towels. Careful not to get any fluid on your paint. Don't worry about the fluid being low here, you haven't opened bleeded yet. Top up with fresh fluid. Now when you gravity bleed make sure you go until nice clean stuff comes out.
Do these 2 services, and change your trans fluid. This is the cure for most rough shifting issues.
The clutch rod, you need a 12mm open end wrench, flashlight, and a flexible back. Wiggle yourself under the dash, and on the clutch pedal linkage you will see a rod that goes into the back of the clutch MC on the firewall. Lossen the locknut on this rod, and turn rod until there is no play, stop as the rod just starts to push on and move the MC. There is enough play inside the MC to allow zero play in the linkage.
Gravity bleed is so easy. Just place a clear hose onto bleeder nipple, loosen the bleeder (10mm wrench), and wait. Wait until the fluid comes out clean, or if you started with clean fluid, until the bubbles stop.
Its VITAL that during this process you never let the fluid in MC get low, otherwise you will add air, in the worst spot that is most difficult to bleed out. So keep checking it, and keep it topped up during the bleed.
If your fluid is dirty, before you open bleeder start by turkey basteing out as much old fluid as you can, then wipe up the rest and wipe inside clean with paper towels. Careful not to get any fluid on your paint. Don't worry about the fluid being low here, you haven't opened bleeded yet. Top up with fresh fluid. Now when you gravity bleed make sure you go until nice clean stuff comes out.
Do these 2 services, and change your trans fluid. This is the cure for most rough shifting issues.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 268
Likes: 1
Both the clitch rod adjust and gravity bleed have DIY instructions on this forum. Both are easy to do.
The clutch rod, you need a 12mm open end wrench, flashlight, and a flexible back. Wiggle yourself under the dash, and on the clutch pedal linkage you will see a rod that goes into the back of the clutch MC on the firewall. Lossen the locknut on this rod, and turn rod until there is no play, stop as the rod just starts to push on and move the MC. There is enough play inside the MC to allow zero play in the linkage.
Gravity bleed is so easy. Just place a clear hose onto bleeder nipple, loosen the bleeder (10mm wrench), and wait. Wait until the fluid comes out clean, or if you started with clean fluid, until the bubbles stop.
Its VITAL that during this process you never let the fluid in MC get low, otherwise you will add air, in the worst spot that is most difficult to bleed out. So keep checking it, and keep it topped up during the bleed.
If your fluid is dirty, before you open bleeder start by turkey basteing out as much old fluid as you can, then wipe up the rest and wipe inside clean with paper towels. Careful not to get any fluid on your paint. Don't worry about the fluid being low here, you haven't opened bleeded yet. Top up with fresh fluid. Now when you gravity bleed make sure you go until nice clean stuff comes out.
Do these 2 services, and change your trans fluid. This is the cure for most rough shifting issues.
The clutch rod, you need a 12mm open end wrench, flashlight, and a flexible back. Wiggle yourself under the dash, and on the clutch pedal linkage you will see a rod that goes into the back of the clutch MC on the firewall. Lossen the locknut on this rod, and turn rod until there is no play, stop as the rod just starts to push on and move the MC. There is enough play inside the MC to allow zero play in the linkage.
Gravity bleed is so easy. Just place a clear hose onto bleeder nipple, loosen the bleeder (10mm wrench), and wait. Wait until the fluid comes out clean, or if you started with clean fluid, until the bubbles stop.
Its VITAL that during this process you never let the fluid in MC get low, otherwise you will add air, in the worst spot that is most difficult to bleed out. So keep checking it, and keep it topped up during the bleed.
If your fluid is dirty, before you open bleeder start by turkey basteing out as much old fluid as you can, then wipe up the rest and wipe inside clean with paper towels. Careful not to get any fluid on your paint. Don't worry about the fluid being low here, you haven't opened bleeded yet. Top up with fresh fluid. Now when you gravity bleed make sure you go until nice clean stuff comes out.
Do these 2 services, and change your trans fluid. This is the cure for most rough shifting issues.
Thanks for all of the information. I took a quick peak under the dash this morning at work and found that the damned CMC is leaking. Had a big ol' drip ready to fall off of it. So looks like ill be replacing that and then following your helpful guide.
Joined: Jul 2013
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I'm pretty sure a lot of CMC's leak, doesn't mean they're bad. Mine leaked all of it's fluid out once, had the clutch engaging near the floor, filled it back up, pumped the crap out of it, and pedal feel came back. After that I bled it, and have been flushing the fluid out regularly, never had another issue.