Power Draw - Smaller Alternator
Anyone know what the motor draws (electricly) to run? No stereo, heater, headlights, etc. Just motor, gauge cluster, tail lights (when braking) and thats about it.
I'd like to get a Smaller alternator that has just enuf A's to power the motor but none of the overhead to try to reduce the drag on the motor. Can one remove coils from the existing alternater to reduce its charging abilty?
TIA.
-Ry
I'd like to get a Smaller alternator that has just enuf A's to power the motor but none of the overhead to try to reduce the drag on the motor. Can one remove coils from the existing alternater to reduce its charging abilty?
TIA.
-Ry
You'll need to account for cooling fans, and the electric power steering as well. A clamp on amp probe would tell you current draw. The charging rate of the Alternator is controlled by the PCM, based on the current use from the ELD.
So unless you have all the bells and whistles on, it's not putting out max amps all the time.
So unless you have all the bells and whistles on, it's not putting out max amps all the time.
I wouldn't be surprised if there is little to gain from using a smaller alternator. Our existing alternators aren't particularly strong as is. Case in point when I didn't tighten down the positive clamp to my battery after doing some work, it came off while driving. This left my car running on the alternator power only. This wasn't an issue when the car was driving on the highway, but whenever any real load was placed on the engine the stereo would brown out(i.e my stereo would shut off whenever I accelerated).
At the time the only things running in the car were gauge, motor and stereo. Under load the alternator did not provide enough power to run the stereo in addition to the motor and gauge cluster.
There probably is some excess power(nameless power to run the headlights), but our alternator is probably pretty close to capacity running just the motor, especially under VTEC. You may not gain very much in HP department. Water pump is better choice. BTW did dave every finish the electric waterpump?
At the time the only things running in the car were gauge, motor and stereo. Under load the alternator did not provide enough power to run the stereo in addition to the motor and gauge cluster.
There probably is some excess power(nameless power to run the headlights), but our alternator is probably pretty close to capacity running just the motor, especially under VTEC. You may not gain very much in HP department. Water pump is better choice. BTW did dave every finish the electric waterpump?
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Originally Posted by hecash,Aug 16 2005, 08:36 PM
I think that you ought to put out a call for an electrical engineer on this one.
I've got a feeling that if the ECU is managing the alternator's load (output) that the drag on the motor from the alternator may vary with the output; more output, more load.
But then.........I don't have a BS in EE.
I've got a feeling that if the ECU is managing the alternator's load (output) that the drag on the motor from the alternator may vary with the output; more output, more load.
But then.........I don't have a BS in EE.
I even said that on my 1st post
I'd say the 2 are directly related.
You can take a charging system load tester ( uses a carbon pile to load the system) and stall the engine If you crank the load over 85A for more than a few seconds.
You can take a charging system load tester ( uses a carbon pile to load the system) and stall the engine If you crank the load over 85A for more than a few seconds.







