I've been having problems with my steering. When I drive, it sometimes feels as if the power steering cuts out, in that there are parts of the wheel's rotation where the steering gets stiff (hard to turn).

However, I recently took my car to have the tires changed. With the wheels in the air, the car was turned on, and the steering turned all the way to one direction on its own.

The tire guy said it was do the boots being bad on one side of the rack, but I think it may have to do with the sensor that goes into the rack. Any thoughts? These parts are all expensive, and if I can pinpoint what needs to be changed, I can get a new part from the stealership rather than gamble on used parts.

 

It could be the torque sensor or the ps ecu itself.
Have you tried to reset the p.s?

See if you can swap out the ps ecu with one of your friends who drives the same car. It's easy to do and will at least eliminate one potential issue.
I get the feeling ur torque sensor is playing up.
Hope u get this resolved. Report back if u end up finding the solution.

 

So, I've done a few things (in between swapping a diff) and some reading, so I'd like to confirm that my torque sensor is the problem.

My power steering would seem to cut-out while turning, and the problem increased in frequency over time. I never had a CEL in connection with this problem. It would be as if the EPS would stop working at certain points during a turn, and I would have to force the wheels to go through the turn or return to center. Also, I had changed my tires a few months ago, and when the tire-guy lifted the car up, he turned the key to on (or turned on the motor) and said the wheels would turn left on their own.

So, I took out the fuse for the EPS. Despite the fact that my forearms needed strengthening (due to lack of power assist), my steering is perfectly fine now. Its the same resistance throughout, and the wheels return to center on their own.

Thus, I believe that my torque sensor is the problem.

I read through many postings, and I saw one where an owner removed the boots on the steering rack, and found salty water and corrosion.Click here. I live in Miami, FL, and have driven through my fair share of torrential downpours, on top of basically having barely any of the under-plastics for my car. But, given that my steering seems fine with the EPS fuse taken out, I still think the torque sensor is the culprit here. Additionally, I have been negligent when it comes to doing my alignments.

So, my questions are:

1) Have I confirmed that my torque sensor is the true problem here?

2) I have seen a lot people suggesting to reset the EPS. Is that the same as resetting the torque sensor neutral position? If not, can someone please explain how I do this?

3) The service manual, at page 17-45, has instructions for re-memorizing the TS neutral position. It says that I need a Honda PGM tester. I have nothing of the sort, and am confused to what that is. Can I do this without said tool, and if so, how? Also, I have seen references to postings that exist about how to reset the neutral position, but I have not seen the actual postings. Can someone post a link here please?

4) Last, I want to raise my rack (with bump steer kit) to compensate for 1.5 inch drop; replace my tie rod ends; and get an alignment before replacing the torque sensor. Should I do all these things in a different order for any reason? My steering has a bit of play, and the ball joints on the tie rod ends appear to be ruined given that I see grease sprayed all over the place from the ball joints. Also, I originally bought my car with neuspeed springs (3 inch drop), and raised the car with eibach sport springs (1-1.5 inch drop). I have driven about 100k miles on the car since purchase--just in case this information is relevant somehow.

If Billman250 happens to pass by this post, please give me some insight. From what I've seen, you seem to be the top expert on these issues.

Also, if anyone knows of a trust-worthy s2000 mechanic in South Florida, please let me know. I have learned to distrust any mechanic in SoFla, so I'd really like to know if a trust-worthy one even exists down here.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/860277-how-to-reset-steering-torque-sensor-no-honda-pgm-tester

I'm having the same problems. I tried the reset multiple times tonight with no success. When I turn left 45 degrees slowly and consistently, the EPS light stays on.

I'm pretty sure the torque sensor is bad, but I at least wanted to try neutral reset before plunking down just under $300 for a new sensor.

Hope the reset works for you.

 

thanks!

 

I too have seen rusted racks from a car being in a salty area. Pull a boot back and take a look with it at full lock. You may not be able to feel it with the fuse out because it's now stiff everywhere. Try feeling for any kind of knotchyness at all when you steer it side to side with the fuse out. Go real slow and easy.

 

My thoughts are you have more experience than the tire guy, because his diagnosis is ridiculous.

You do not need a Honda PGM tester to re-learn the torque sensor neutral position (yes this is where you want to start), all you need is a fine-wire paper clip. Bend the paper clip into the shape of a horseshoe, then scratch it back and forth on the concrete to make two tiny flat screwdriver like tips. Basically sharpen the tips, if you don't you will loosen the connections on the OBDII and create future testing and resetting problems.

What you are feeling is most likely opposing voltage input fighting you (proven by the wheel turning on its own) rather than the system cutting out.

-1. BATTERY terminals must be TIGHT. Grab each terminal with one hand and attempt to twist back and forth. If you can, then they are not tight enough. This is one of the number one causes of EPS problems, among others. S2000s with loose battery terminals in my shop is about 75%. Terminals must be ALL the way down on the battey post to clamp properly. If you have those silly felt red and green washers under the battery, remove them (The special ground path of the S2000 negates the need for them (more on that another time). All they do is prevent the terminals from bottoming out and achieving proper clamping. If you cannot get them to clamp tight, I will go over solutions but don't bother continuing until they are tight (cannot be twisted off with one hand)

-2. Check remaining grounds for tightness of the bolts...these are usually not an issue unless tampered with during major work.
** two grounds, left lower rear side of engine, two 100mm head bolts right next to each other
** one of the above grounds goes down to the subframe, check it
** ground strap near the rack
** main system ground, underhood left side, straight down, bolted to body near the EPS mini fuse block

-3 air the front tires down to 15 psi if they are stock width, this adds increased resistance during the re-learn to facilitate. Big front wheels should not need airing down

-4 a search should reveal the re-learn procedure via a paper clip, If I come across it I will link here.

 

Thanks to this thread and a few others I've read over the past few months I finally have the EPS working as it should be. I put in a new torque sensor yesterday and after doing the re-learn procedure with a paper clip, the steering is finally operating normally.
What a relief! I've been dealing with a steering wheel that kept wanting to fight me whenever it felt like it and occasionally would go full left lock on start-up, on cool mornings. I only remember seeing the EPS light come on one or two times since I bought his car not long ago but it never stayed on. I've also been perusing several threads on this subject on this site to learn as much as I could before I decided to replace the torque sensor. I also had my son in law (a very good mechanic at a local GM dealership) mention that it sounded like the torque sensor when I described the symptoms to him so...

I printed out the pages I needed from an online manual (actually only needed one page, 17-54 and attempted to replace it. Getting it out wasn't too big of a deal...getting the new one back in took a bit longer as it was not going to just go back in the way the manual describes. Then I remembered reading a thread here about somebody having to make a wrench to loosen the rack guide locknut. I tried finding something I had that might fit it but it measures about 43mm and nothing I had would come close to that.

Time to make a wrench. It's not pretty and really doesn't even look like a wrench, but it worked enough to loosen the locknut so that I could then back off the rack guide screw enough to see if that would allow the torque sensor to go in. I needed to loosen the guide screw more than I thought (maybe 1/8") but that was all that was needed. The torque sensor slipped right in and I was able to bolt it down. Turned the guide screw back to where it had been and re-tightened the locknut and it was good to go.

After everything was back on the ground I did the re-learn again and the difference was immediate. The steering turned smoothly both to the left and right. FWIW, I did re-learn the EPS before I ever started the torque sensor replacement earlier in the day and the problem was still there. Turn right and it seemed OK, turn left and there was some kickback in the wheel.

It was a nice drive into work this morning for a change!

My 'wrench' for those that may be wondering. I wasn't sure it would work either but that steel is 3/16" thick.

 

oh boy i had same steering problems it got so bad i was afraid to drive it. replaced steering rack, eps module, and trust me, ignore all of that and get a new torque sensor.