A couple searches and I'm assuming you're referring to the ECU 's general backup fuse. Gonna try it when I get home and go from there. Thanks for everyone's input on this thread!
Found this in a different thread:

 

Same physical location in m 2006 "AP2" only it's Fuse #16 -- 7.5A - Backup.

-- Chuck

 

Hi,

My EPS started jerking and then the next day stopped working completely. I have an extended warranty so I took it to the Honda dealer. They said the EPS needs to be replaced. They have been looking at all distributors, ebay, amazon, etc and cannot find one for over a week. Is is possible to send my EPS computer in for rework and then send it back. The dealer is getting desperate so I think they would be willing to try anything.

Thanks!

 

Refer to first post in this thread. You could recommend dealer remove eps module, and send to an electronics repair specialist, along with the content of that first post. Any place that knows how to do electronics repair should be able to follow the post and replicate the steps. Return repaired module to dealer to reinstall.

 

1st time on the site so pardon my ignorance. The EPS module on my 24 year old S2000 is kaput (says my friendly mechanic). He's reluctant to buy a salvaged unit and has handed that responsibility over to me. I'd be happy to donate my broken unit to anyone who wants to have a go at repairing it, if someone can help me get my hands on a (working) replacement?

 

Dead 2005 S2000 EPS Module for the last 2 years. Any new info?

 

I had basically the same scenario as OP occur to me a few months ago. I read codes from the module and 32/37 were present. I checked the wiring, connectors, grounds, and all looked good. Unfortunately the only culprit left was this discontinued module. I pulled it and began dismantling.



Since OP didn’t mention it, I first opened the sheet metal side out of curiousity. A board lives there that is held in with screws and a bunch of through-hole solder joints. The whole thing is conformal coated so desoldering the joints to remove it would be fun. Fortunately no joints looked obviously bad and no devices had any obvious burn marks. Obviously this isn’t enough to know for sure that the board is good, but that’s a positive sign at least.




With no obvious entry points on the board side without desoldering, I moved to the heatsink side. When you pull the heatsink part off the plastic body, the MOSFET pins bend and twist and fight you during the process, as if they are attached to the body pins with more than just friction. IF they're assembled by sliding the bent MOSFET pins down the protruding body pins, without any kind of spot weld or solder, it seems that they sort of weld themselves to each pin with use. I did this as gently as I could, being careful to pull straight out from the module, but some wiggling back and forth is required. This makes it impossible to know the pin conditions "in situ". Eventually mine let go, leaving me with this.




There does appear to be pitting on the protruding body pins. It also appears like there’s extra material on some of the pins, as if the MOSFET pins melted to them and stayed during removal. I see some MOSFET pins are missing some of their length lending credence to this idea. I tried bending the MOSFET pins back into what I thought an assembly position would be, but they are remarkably brittle. Several of them broke off without much force at all, so new ones will be required to attempt reassembly.





OP mentioned finding replacement parts from some vendor who sold them piecemeal. All I see is Digikey which wants to sell them in quantities of 82+ (~$300). As an experiment, I may jump on this grenade, as this is roughly the cost of entire used modules.



I’m kind of flabbergasted at how this thing is assembled. If it’s only spring force making electrical contact between these pins, then it’s amazing these things last as long as they do. In addition, there is nothing positioning the MOSFETs laterally under their little metal bracket. It seems to be up to the assembler to get these situated in just the right place. For us attempting this repair, it will be a guessing game at where these should be positioned and how the MOSFET pins should be bent to slide on easily, but also make a strong electrical connection.

 

Wow that's crazy. Can you solder these pins to their appropriate location upon assembly?

 

Not without some significant modification

 

Thanks for digging into this!

Is it possible that the metal trace panel that has the "body pins" in the EPS module can be easily removed? I'm wondering if that metal trace panel maybe was originally separate and the body pins soldered to the MOSFET pins as an assembly on the heat sink side. Then that assembly was placed into the EPS main module and the trace panel making electrical connection with friction? I can't quite tell if this is possible from the photos.