Problem with Brake? Need help! Slowing down
Lately my car has felt slower, and when i put it into neutral going about 2-3 mph I can feel something slowing the car down. I will roll to a stop sooner then normal.
Then yesterday, I heard a clunking sound from my back rear tire when I was idling. Then when I reached my destination I went back to check it out and there was a horrible smell coming from the back right wheel well most closly connected to the smell of an electrical burn but I dont know.
I am going to take it in ASAP, but if anyone knows what the problem could be let me know. That way I can either fix it myself or sound educated when I talk to the service man so i do not get ripped off.
Thanks in advance.
Then yesterday, I heard a clunking sound from my back rear tire when I was idling. Then when I reached my destination I went back to check it out and there was a horrible smell coming from the back right wheel well most closly connected to the smell of an electrical burn but I dont know.
I am going to take it in ASAP, but if anyone knows what the problem could be let me know. That way I can either fix it myself or sound educated when I talk to the service man so i do not get ripped off.
Thanks in advance.
ok. I also forgot to mention there is a slight pulse or rythm to the slowing down. Possibly my rotor is warped?
What do you guys think?
If this is the case, how much do you think it will cost?
I also have the problem which I read about in another thread with the ticking. I am going to get that fixed too. Any estimates??
help is greatly appreciated
What do you guys think?
If this is the case, how much do you think it will cost?
I also have the problem which I read about in another thread with the ticking. I am going to get that fixed too. Any estimates??
help is greatly appreciated
Maybe your rear caliper froze up.
You could always drive around town, nothing too crazy, then feel both of the rear wheels. If one is reasonably hotter than the other, you probably have a dragging pad. Be careful though, the wheel can be quite hot if you have a problem.
You could always drive around town, nothing too crazy, then feel both of the rear wheels. If one is reasonably hotter than the other, you probably have a dragging pad. Be careful though, the wheel can be quite hot if you have a problem.
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I've read quite a few threads on here about older AP1 rear calipers binding up as they age. I don't know if I'd call it a common occurrence but it seems like these threads pop up about once a month.
Anyways, if you've been driving around on it for a little while chances are you'll need a new set of rear pads, a new rotor, and a rebuilt caliper (or have someone rebuild your existing caliper).
Anyways, if you've been driving around on it for a little while chances are you'll need a new set of rear pads, a new rotor, and a rebuilt caliper (or have someone rebuild your existing caliper).
Do the job correctly and be sure to replace brake components on both sides of the car. For example, if you replace the rotor and pads on the right, also do so on the left. If you need to rebuild or replace the right rear caliper (based on your description of the problem it is likely that you do), I recommend at least rebuilding the left one too.
OEM prices via online sources:
Rear pads = $45/set
Rear caliper rebuild kit = $20
Rear rotors = $190/set ($85 each)
Labor = ?? depends on the shop rate. I'd figure about 3 hours, mainly for installing the rebuild kit
You may be able to do a light turn on the rotors instead of replacing them. That will cost about $20-40 instead of $190, but you must be absolutely certain that the thickness is not below specifications after turning. The limits are embossed on the hub of the rotor. I've noticed that many shops (at least in South Florida) will no longer turn rotors due to liability concerns.
If you buy OEM pads, they come with the anti-squeal liners and lube. You also may need to replace the spring clips, and I can't remember if they come with the pads or not.
OEM prices via online sources:
Rear pads = $45/set
Rear caliper rebuild kit = $20
Rear rotors = $190/set ($85 each)
Labor = ?? depends on the shop rate. I'd figure about 3 hours, mainly for installing the rebuild kit
You may be able to do a light turn on the rotors instead of replacing them. That will cost about $20-40 instead of $190, but you must be absolutely certain that the thickness is not below specifications after turning. The limits are embossed on the hub of the rotor. I've noticed that many shops (at least in South Florida) will no longer turn rotors due to liability concerns.
If you buy OEM pads, they come with the anti-squeal liners and lube. You also may need to replace the spring clips, and I can't remember if they come with the pads or not.




