Problem with Oil Jet Bolts
No, definitely not, lol. I already knew that bolt was a pain in the ass. For a simple inspection I removed the much easier one, I believe from cylinder 3, but realistically 2-4 will be the same, everything just happened to be oriented in a way that that particular jet bolt was easily visible and accessible, so that's the one I removed.
Someone mentioned threading "each of them in and out several times"....I find that pretty bizarre, but everyone has varying results working on their cars, regardless of skill level....a job that might not give me an issue may give others a nightmare, and vise-versa.
All that being said, I WAS prepared and had the updated jet bolts on stand-by in case mine happened to be an 02 in the range that didn't receive them, but if I had to do the job I wouldn't find it too difficult on jackstands. Yes, the #1 bolt can be tricky, but with a wobble and a long extension it's doable. I try not to overthink these things too much and let other people's horror stories get into my head. Just take your time, thread the bolts in by hand until they stop, ensure the jet assemblies are oriented properly with their little indexing tabs in their recesses, and torque to 12 ft/lbs preferably with a digitial torque wrench that actively displays the torque number while you tighten the bolt vs a click-style.
Someone mentioned threading "each of them in and out several times"....I find that pretty bizarre, but everyone has varying results working on their cars, regardless of skill level....a job that might not give me an issue may give others a nightmare, and vise-versa.
All that being said, I WAS prepared and had the updated jet bolts on stand-by in case mine happened to be an 02 in the range that didn't receive them, but if I had to do the job I wouldn't find it too difficult on jackstands. Yes, the #1 bolt can be tricky, but with a wobble and a long extension it's doable. I try not to overthink these things too much and let other people's horror stories get into my head. Just take your time, thread the bolts in by hand until they stop, ensure the jet assemblies are oriented properly with their little indexing tabs in their recesses, and torque to 12 ft/lbs preferably with a digitial torque wrench that actively displays the torque number while you tighten the bolt vs a click-style.

@Kyle Thanks for the clarification. I'm wondering why didn't you swap out the bolts straight up since you're already in there knowing that the internal springs may crap out (sooner or later) even with the updated bolts. Mine is a 2005 so the bolts for sure are updated version but what I'm worrying is the internal springs as the car is at 120k miles. But again, look at other models of Honda engines, they seems to be using the same style of bolts/spring to do the same thing so I'm sure tons have failed springs and still rocking out there....Perhaps we are just a bunch of OCDs with our car 

Given the potential risk of stripping the threads in the block or the bolts needlessly, I decided to play it safe and essentially not fix what ain't broke. Had I seen this thread before I may have swapped them out for peace of mind. But with everything buttoned up and the oil pan leak-free I can't say I'm really feeling the itch to get back in there.....
I considered it, but my car only has 50k miles on it currently, and there's plenty of s2000s running strong that are 02+ well into the 200k+ mile mark. Admittedly this thread is the first time I've ever heard of this "issue".
Given the potential risk of stripping the threads in the block or the bolts needlessly, I decided to play it safe and essentially not fix what ain't broke. Had I seen this thread before I may have swapped them out for peace of mind. But with everything buttoned up and the oil pan leak-free I can't say I'm really feeling the itch to get back in there.....
Given the potential risk of stripping the threads in the block or the bolts needlessly, I decided to play it safe and essentially not fix what ain't broke. Had I seen this thread before I may have swapped them out for peace of mind. But with everything buttoned up and the oil pan leak-free I can't say I'm really feeling the itch to get back in there.....

U definitely shouldn't go back in there now since you buttoned everything back up and you discovered "it wasn't broke so don't fix it".
Yeah its the first I hear of that possible spring failure issue. My '00 which is the oldest S2000 model definitely doesn't have the upgraded bolts like your '02 does and its on 135k miles but running strong since day one. I'll be changing the bolts to the upgraded ones soon though as a peace of mind thing and in preparation for supercharging 
U definitely shouldn't go back in there now since you buttoned everything back up and you discovered "it wasn't broke so don't fix it".

U definitely shouldn't go back in there now since you buttoned everything back up and you discovered "it wasn't broke so don't fix it".
I wouldn't even think about replacing oil jet bolts, unless the oil pressure is consistently low, at idle.
I did several on my old Honda dirt and street bikes, when rebuilding the engines. The residual oil all over the parts, made threading an issue, even with the engine on the bench. I can't imagine what it's like, under the car with the engine 1 or 2 inches from your face.
I did several on my old Honda dirt and street bikes, when rebuilding the engines. The residual oil all over the parts, made threading an issue, even with the engine on the bench. I can't imagine what it's like, under the car with the engine 1 or 2 inches from your face.
Last edited by windhund116; Sep 21, 2020 at 01:09 PM.
I wouldn't even think about replacing oil jet bolts, unless the oil pressure is consistently low, at idle.
I did several on my old Honda dirt and street bikes, when rebuilding the engines. The residual oil all over the parts, made threading an issue, even with the engine on the bench. I can't imagine what it's like, under the car with the engine 1 or 2 inches from your face.
I did several on my old Honda dirt and street bikes, when rebuilding the engines. The residual oil all over the parts, made threading an issue, even with the engine on the bench. I can't imagine what it's like, under the car with the engine 1 or 2 inches from your face.
my hot oil pressure at idle always seemed a tad low to me, usually hovering around 15 psi and it could drop down to 12 psi if the engine was really hot. I suspect my oil jet bolt springs were likely broken as my engine bearings were all new, and oil pressure at 3500 rpms was perfect, it only seemed low at hot idle. At cold idle the pressure was really high (much more than 28 psi opening pressure of the oil bolts), so even perfectly functioning and new oil jet bolts would be pushed open at cold idle. I don't believe the lower pressure at hot idle would cause engine damage. The oem factory oil pressure switch doesn't activate until pressure is 10 psi or lower.












