Alright i am sure there is a way i just have not found it yet.

I am looking to get 300 to the wheels all motor.

Can anyone get me started out right now i am running a aem v2, dc header, and spugen exhaust i know this really is only maybe giving me like 10 to the wheels all together.

But i am about to grab a vafc 2 along with a new flywheel and radiator.

Just looking for some helpful advice from anyone if this is possiable.

I am guessing i am going to need to get some cams. and a few other things and get some tunning done.

Thanks in advance cody

 

ull probably need something better than a DC header, definately some wild cams and upgraded valve train, maybe even try to get higher compression ratio, I also suggest a Hondata if you really want 300rwhp. It will probably be more expensive and time consuming then you think, make sure you tune it somewhere where they know their stuff. GOOD LUCK

 

i dont think its a maybe, you will need to do block work to acheive those kind of hp figures.


I was at alaniz's shop a few weeks back, he is working on a custom intake manifold that looks pretty trick, when i go back to pick up my buddies head. il see if he can let me take pictures.

He told me thats where the real bottle neck in the s2k motor is.

 

Bwahhahahahhaaaaa... snort... wheeze... wheeze... bwhaaaahahaahhaa ....


Oh, sorry... you're serious.

I don't want to make light of your question, but so far no one has even come close to making 300rwhp all motor. I haven't even seen anyone top 240rwhp.

You can pretty much scrap the parts you have now, and don't waste your money on the VAFC.

Here are my 2 cents:
First of all, you should keep in mind that if you're making 300rwhp NA on a 2.0L motor, it's not going to be streetable. Also, you're probably going to have a very "peaky" engine, meaning the powerband will be even more narrow than it is now.

One thing you'll need to do is get rid of parasitic losses. This includes:
1) Ultra-lightweight flywheel.
2) Fully balanced engine.
3) Ultra lightweight valvetrain (maybe something like VTEC-killer camshafts, plus titanium valves).
4) Lightweight pistons.
5) Dry-sump oil system.
6) Ditch the A/C, consider going to an electric water pump.
7) If you're dyno-ing on a dynojet, or other roller-dyno, get the lightest wheels (with the lowest moment of inertia) that money can buy.
8) Possibly a lighter (custom) driveshaft.

All those things might show up as ~10-20hp on a roller-dyno.

Now you need to add power:
1) Increase compression. I'd shoot for around 13:1. You'll be running race gas, but if you can afford to build a 300rwhp F20C, then you can afford the race gas.
2) Increase displacement. This should boost power significantly. Hopefully you can increase your displacement without lowering your redline. If you get lightweight pistons and stronger connecting rods, you should be OK.
3) Increase airflow. Competition headwork by someone that truly knows what they're doing. The F20C head flows well, but you need to improve upon that. You'll need a better intake manifold. ITBs might work if you can tune them properly... maybe just a custom manifold... I'm not sure. Header: You'll probably need a custom 4-into-1 job. Exhaust: The Amuse R1000 might work for you... but you may need something even bigger. Make sure you take the catalytic converter out of the system, it's a huge restriction, and this car won't be streetable anyway. Cams: You'll need cams to increase airflow through the engine at the right places. Something like Toda's VTEC-killer camshafts will allow you to reduce valvetrain weight and also give you an aggressive cam profile. Of course the car probably won't idle below 3500 RPMs, but that's not my problem... I'm just trying to help you get to 300rwhp.
4) Tune! You'll need a programmable ECU and a huge chunk of change for dyno time for tuning.


Once you've done all this, I suspect you'll still not be at 300rwhp. Maybe 260 if you're lucky. And with the amount of money that you will have invested, you probably could've sold the car and picked up a used Ferrari F355.


By the way, if you want to do a search, you can probably find that this question has been asked many times before you. You'll find similar responses in all of those threads... but you still won't find anyone that comes back and said: "I did all the modifications that you guys suggested, and now I'm making 300rwhp, Yea!"

 

it will take allot of work, but allot of the stuff listed is not really needed

yes it will need to be on race gas... yes it will be very high compression. And more than likely will not be a street application. (unless your hardcore haha)

in my opinion no need for electric waterpump...drysump... titanium valvetrain..vtec killers..


If your are serious about making this kind of power give joe(alaniz) a call. Hes a great guy.

Btw He told me He is expecting more than 300hp out of his stroker kit.

 

I suspect that the only way somebody will see 300rwhp NA is if they can bump the redline up to about 12,000 or so. Otherwise you'll have to bump the torque per liter to levels that not even F1 cars achieve.

 

When you show me that it can be done without everything on that list, then I'll believe you.

 

What would we be looking at? 100lb-ft per liter at 9K RPMs? What do F1 engines make? About 90lb-ft per liter at 17K RPMs?

 

 

Assuming 900 rwhp at 19,000 rpm, that's 248 lb-ft of torque. Which is about 83 lb-ft of torque per liter.

Contrast that with 300 rwhp at 9000rpm, that's 175 lb-ft of torque. Which is 87 lb-ft of torque per liter.

Working off charts from our last dyno day, max hp on a stock F20C comes at about 8300 rpm, with torque at 128 lb-ft, or 64 lb-ft of torque per liter.

So that'd be quite a technological achievement to get 300...