Radiator Bleed
#1
Thread Starter
Radiator Bleed
Hey guys,
Did a radiator flush by just using the radiator drain plug. So basically I removed the rad plug, drained it, and then screwed it back in. After that I filled it back up. Warmed up the car for the thermostat to open up and then I repeated the steps above. I just want to confirm that I dont have any air in my system. My concern is due to me on the highway getting around 200-215 temp readin when cruising. Normal traffic its around 185-200
I tested the heater and it heats up plenty when i step on it around 2-3k. On idle, it doesnt it doesnt heat too much. You just feel it warm.
I felt the top rad hose and its pretty hot, the bottom one was cool. When the thermostat opened up and the fluid changed, i felt it warm up a bit but nothing compared to the top.
I was going to try to bleed it but didnt want to mess with anything if I didnt have too. Also thought if I did have air pockets that it would become eliminated by me just filling up the resivior when needed.
Did a radiator flush by just using the radiator drain plug. So basically I removed the rad plug, drained it, and then screwed it back in. After that I filled it back up. Warmed up the car for the thermostat to open up and then I repeated the steps above. I just want to confirm that I dont have any air in my system. My concern is due to me on the highway getting around 200-215 temp readin when cruising. Normal traffic its around 185-200
I tested the heater and it heats up plenty when i step on it around 2-3k. On idle, it doesnt it doesnt heat too much. You just feel it warm.
I felt the top rad hose and its pretty hot, the bottom one was cool. When the thermostat opened up and the fluid changed, i felt it warm up a bit but nothing compared to the top.
I was going to try to bleed it but didnt want to mess with anything if I didnt have too. Also thought if I did have air pockets that it would become eliminated by me just filling up the resivior when needed.
#3
Moderator
Heat goes cooler at idle, you have air 100%.
run it to three bars, plus one minute, shut it off.
open the bleeder on the intake. you will get air out. squeeze the upper hose to get a little more air out. while holding the hose squezzed, close the bleeder.
open the rad cap, fill the rad. replace cap.
Start it up again, idle for 2 minutes, shut it off. Repeat above steps till air is out. 2-3 cyclyes will do it.
run it to three bars, plus one minute, shut it off.
open the bleeder on the intake. you will get air out. squeeze the upper hose to get a little more air out. while holding the hose squezzed, close the bleeder.
open the rad cap, fill the rad. replace cap.
Start it up again, idle for 2 minutes, shut it off. Repeat above steps till air is out. 2-3 cyclyes will do it.
#5
Thread Starter
Ok i did wat Bill advised. I saw bubbles a few bubbles and water come out of that bleeder. I then did the process 3 times. The car now heats up when idle. Plus when I did the bleed and opened up the rad cap, it was full. So does this mean its good now?
Also, the lower rad hose was still pretty cold. Is this normal?
Thanks
Also, the lower rad hose was still pretty cold. Is this normal?
Thanks
#6
Thread Starter
Ok so I had my laptop hooked up while in stop and go traffic today. And noticed that my idle temperature was around 195-198 with the AC on. When i started to drive, it would go down to 192-195 but the drive was only for a few seconds until I hi traffic again.
Does this seem normal?
I have the stock rad with the fans running all the time.
Does this seem normal?
I have the stock rad with the fans running all the time.
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#8
Thread Starter
Yep the AC was on, but I hardwired the fans to run all the time. So with the ac on or off, both fans are running all the time.
Crusing on the highway, I have seen 200-215 but that was pre-bleed. So we will see tomorrow what I run.
Crusing on the highway, I have seen 200-215 but that was pre-bleed. So we will see tomorrow what I run.
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