S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Radiator Flush or something else?

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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 06:17 AM
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Default Radiator Flush or something else?

ok, while I'm stuck at work for the next few hours, I figured I'd try to go ahead and get some opinions. So, a few weeks ago me and a friend removed my intake manifold and tucked/reran some coolant line and what not. upon doing so, when we ran the coolant line that runs by the throttle body, the new hose I used was a little too big, if I had a smaller hose at the time trust me I would have used it. Anyways, I make sure to tighten the hose down extra good so it didn't leak, I mean, I tightened it super good but nonetheless it did leak a little as time went on. I know the leak is coming from here because I can actually see it. now I do plan to remove the intake manifold and fit the actual size hose that goes here but since this leak has occurred its given me some problems with over heating. I keep my radiator topped off and there is even fluid in the reservoir, but I have had to pop open the rad cap and add more fluid a lot of times because of this leak, so in doing that is there any way I've got air in my lines and that is making my car over heat when stopped in traffic or so for 3 or more minutes? before this leak in the line I had absolutely no problems, my bottom rad hose is warm just like the top hose, my heat does work once the car warms up and I drive so I don't think the thermostat is bad either. I'm going to flush the radiator today and try to get any existing air pockets out and hopefully that fixed the over heating issue until I can fix the leak. I just don't understand why its over heating so easily when I have plenty of fluid in the rad and reservoir, unless air is trapped in the lines. So feel free to give any advice or opinions, all will be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:17 AM
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first DO NOT DRIVE IT IF IT is over heating. we have aluminum blocks. needless to say it will do damage. 2. follow the coolant bleed procedure provided by Billman. 3. was there a reason to move those hoses?
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:31 AM
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I know our blocks are aluminum. It's does fine when I drive, just will start to over heat when stuck in traffic for a long time, which is a problem. And I plan to use the diy following billmans instructions for sure. And just to clean up the bay a little bit. So the question still stands, could I have air in my line from having to add fluid once or so a week? Because that's the only thing I can think of causing the slight over heating. Like I said, never had the problem before the leak, so it's gotta be the culprit.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:32 AM
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I might add, it's fine when I drive, like say I'm stopped in traffic, temp raises to 9 bars (mines ap2) and then I start driving, it immediately lowers back down to 8 because of the cool air on the rad.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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thats still not good for the block. you may be pulling in air from where the leak is happening. when the thermostat opens it probably creates a negative vacuum and sucks up air from where the leak is starting? i could be wrong. maybe Billman will chime in. first thing you should do is stop the leak. because if that is the main cause bleeding the air wont help any.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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Ok dually noted. I'm not trying to warp my block. No matter what, this weekend the leak will be fixed. That has to be the only culprit that's causing all these problems. So I'm gonna for sure fix the leak. And it's also for sure not a head gasket. No milky residue in the rad or oil in the reservoir. Just throwing that out there. First things first, get this leak stopped, and THEN I'll flush any air out. Hopefully that fixes the problem. I'll post again once I get the leak taken care of.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 08:47 AM
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It's likely that when you reworked the coolant hoses that you didn't do a proper bleed then. Now you have air in the system.

X2 on no driving.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by MR.T
It's likely that when you reworked the coolant hoses that you didn't do a proper bleed then. Now you have air in the system.

X2 on no driving.
That is very likely. Actually, I'm sure that's true.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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Ok, I fixed the leak, for sure, and flushed the rad and bled it, like billman instructed. So I'm driving home and it starts to over heat, which it never did while driving. I stop and feel the bottom hose and it's not hot, but the top is, I let it cool down and then make it home without it over heating ( when I say over heating I mean 9-10 bars) so I make it home and let it idle with the heat on full blast, never over heats because the fans keep kicking on and cooling it I guess, same thing with cool air, never over heats on full blast. So then I turn the air off and let it idle, it starts to over heat (9-10) bars, so, I raise the revs to 2k and the fans kick on and cool it back down. Wtf is the problem!? Why is it over heating on idle?? Could a bad thermostat do this? The heat blew very hot and very cold when on full blast on each. I just don't understand why it over heats at idle when I know there's no leak and the rad is full. Help desperately needed
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 09:38 PM
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I'm going to try and bleed the system again, there's a few things I could do better to help narrow down the issue.
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