Yup. That's it. Mine is now bowed up a little bit and the passenger side sub frame is tweaked in like 1/4".

 

You can also see the camber/toe arm I was talking about in that pic

 

Those look like toe numbers. Not caster and camber for sure.

No, the rear knuckle where contact occured is the only thing you need to buy. You don't need anything else if you verified that nothing was visually damaged. The rest of the components hold up pretty well, it's only the knuckle that is the weakest link in this setup.

I wouldn't be too concerned with what your friends said. Don't bother with going to get a mechanic to inspect it. From your description and what you have done to tried and fix it, like I've said, I'm very certain it's the rear knuckle. Buy the rear knuckle from Honda first, then go to the mechanic to get it replaced, then go to a wheel/tyre shop to get it realigned.

Most reputable alignment machines will have factory Honda specs that they can use as a reference to adjust back. Once hooked up on the machine with the new rear knuckle, apart from the immediate "off steering", you'll be very certain the numbers will look very different from what it is now.

 

it might also be better to get a new bearing and hub as well

 

by bearing,
so u mean wheel bearing or hub bearing? or are they the same thing?

i'm not too familiar with the terms lol *noob*

there aren't any noises coming from the rear as i drive...so don't need new wheel bearings?

 

depending on who is doing your knuckle. you will need to get the old hub and wheel bearing pressed out. than if it is undamaged, reinstall it in the new knuckle. if you can save the old wheel bearing and hub than you wont need to buy them