Rear Control Arm Bushing
looks like these are ADJUSTER bolts, which means they are used to do the toe alignment...
my question is...if you went to get an alignment, how would they adjust the toe if the adjuster bolt is seized?
would periodic alignments (adjusting the adjuster bolt) prevent this?
my question is...if you went to get an alignment, how would they adjust the toe if the adjuster bolt is seized?
would periodic alignments (adjusting the adjuster bolt) prevent this?
hecash Posted on Dec 11 2007, 08:49 PM
About 1 hour per side.
And (as you can see) it took 4 hack saw blades.. well.. the last one is still ok.
A bit short but still ok.
jyeung528 Posted on Dec 11 2007, 08:55 PM
I have no electrical power in my garage box so I had to do it all by hand.
The lower arm is pretty close and one does NOT want to accidentally cut through that with a power tool.
They are
"They" bring out the 17mm ring spanner with a big A$$ bar.
What happens then is that the bolt and the steel bush both turn in the rubber boot.
I don't know if that is supposed to happen.
It may pre-load the rubber boot too much or may even destroy it.
Is that rubber & steel bushing one piece, as in a vulcanised piece?
Anyway..
I haven't even started on the front yet.
That castor adjuster has to be done sometime.
I guess removing the whole subframe is a quicker way, maybe the only way?
Any advise on that?
How long did it take you to cut them off by hand?
And (as you can see) it took 4 hack saw blades.. well.. the last one is still ok.
A bit short but still ok.
jyeung528 Posted on Dec 11 2007, 08:55 PM
if i am replacing my toe arms and my bolts have seized...does that mean i need to chop chop like that??
The lower arm is pretty close and one does NOT want to accidentally cut through that with a power tool.
looks like these are ADJUSTER bolts,
if you went to get an alignment, how would they adjust the toe if the adjuster bolt is seized?
What happens then is that the bolt and the steel bush both turn in the rubber boot.
I don't know if that is supposed to happen.
It may pre-load the rubber boot too much or may even destroy it.
Is that rubber & steel bushing one piece, as in a vulcanised piece?
Anyway..
I haven't even started on the front yet.
That castor adjuster has to be done sometime.
I guess removing the whole subframe is a quicker way, maybe the only way?
Any advise on that?
Originally Posted by jyeung528,Dec 11 2007, 11:26 PM
you guys missed a question.


Put back re-aligning to the punch mark.
Then get the car re-aligned on a four wheel alignment jig.
If you take out the top wishbone bolts don't forget to tighten them with the suspension in the 'normal' pre loaded position or when you lower the car it will be on tip-toes
Just moving them isn't a long term fix.
If you have a newish car do it soon while you can.
^
understood, thanks.
i wonder why this seizing isn't mentioned more often (if at all) in the anti-bumpsteer kit threads where people change this toe arm...i figure there'd be more people that mention the seized bolt while replacing this arm...
understood, thanks.
i wonder why this seizing isn't mentioned more often (if at all) in the anti-bumpsteer kit threads where people change this toe arm...i figure there'd be more people that mention the seized bolt while replacing this arm...
There will be new bushings for this available for this sometime next spring. There is someone on the forum that may be selling them. I dont want to burst any bubbles or anything but I currently have all the uppers done on my car and I am awaiting the other. I think I will end up doing the lower with Billet Aluminum and a sepheric bearing.







A $ worth (as in 1
) of anti seize compund would have prevented this.