schwett

for some unknown reason, one of the four screws holding my hardtop latches in place was extremely difficult to get out.

it's a #2 phillips head. the head is rather soft and unfortunately i rounded it a bit on the first try. i came back at it more carefully with a screwdriver head on a t-bar, applying considerable downward pressure, but no luck. i rounded it more. at this point drilled down into it and used a screw extractor. the screw extractor went in very firmly, and grabbed on well. i had it attached to a normal handle, which i couldn't get enough torque on the rotate it at all. i took the handle off and attached it to the t-bar. the $()*#) extractor BROKE OFF about halfway down the shaft.

why in gods name would honda tighten a phillips head screw with this degree of torque - enough to snap a screw extractor? if the ones on the other side are indicative, it doesn't have any loctite on it. i was able originally to tighten it by a teensy bit (about 1/32 turn) which i did just to see if there was any stiction or loctite effect going on.

now the head is totally destroyed. i can't use another screw extractor since there's one buried in it already that i absolutely can't remove (it's not sticking out at all.) i tried cutting a flathead groove in the screw but the head isn't deep enough - even a very large flathead which spand the entire width of the head doesn't grab enough to rotate cleanly.

help!

anyone tried those new craftsman screw out things which only grab the head of a screw? seems like it would just annihilate a screw this soft.

darkknight1999

Take it back to your dealer and have them take it out. That way you don't have to worry about slipping and scratching the paint. Have them install new screws.

boiler

It's too late now, but what I would have done first would have been to very carefully drill the head of the screw OFF with a large enough bit to completely remove the head. Once the head was removed, take your part off and then you might be lucky enough to remove the screw by hand. If not then use the screw extractor.

In your present situation, it sounds like the only option left is to grind the head of the screw off. Be aware, the screw extractor is VERY tough and has been heat treated, so will be tough to grind through. Use a Dremel Moto tool or an air die grinder to remove the screw head.

Good luck,
Bob

schwett

hmmm

i had considered drilling the head off. my concern is that since the bracket is so 'flat' there won't be any protruding portion of the screw underneath it... or rather, about 1/16" at most. how will i grip that to twist it out?

the screw extractor broke off pretty deep inside the screw. it's not sticking out into the 'head' at all.

i would just drill the screw off, but as it is now everything works fine, the screw just looks horrid and the hardtop isn't adjusted properly (but it's useable.) if i drill the head off, then the hardtop is out of commission until the screw can be removed. i'm worried that without whatever is left of the head on there, there's no way to get it off at all.

boiler

[QUOTE]Originally posted by schwett
[B]hmmm

i had considered drilling the head off. my concern is that since the bracket is so 'flat' there won't be any protruding portion of the screw underneath it... or rather, about 1/16" at most. how will i grip that to twist it out?

xviper

Having done my own hardtop installation, I think I have an appreciation for the screws you are dealing with. Do you recall hearing the topic of "galvanic corrosion" being discussed here? When I removed those screws, they were also quite tight. I was amazed to find out that once the screw "snapped" loose, they were quite easy to remove after that. I believe that if those screws have been on for quite some time, they may be "stuck" on for that "g.c.". The surface of the inside bevel of the screw head kinda "welds" itself to the matching "countersunk" surface of the bracket. With the other screws, you can try to break the "corrosion" by putting your screwdriver firmly in the screw and then tapping it with a hammer before applying pressure to "snap" it free from its initial hold.
As for the one already buggered, try to drill out the head as best you can. Once you have removed most of the screw head that is in contact with the countersunk bracket hole, you may find it easy to turn screw. The Craftsman "Screwout" is like a reverse drill bit. If it does not grab the screw, it will continually drill the head out. Since it is bevelled somewhat like the countersunk hole, you may very likely reach a point where you will have drilled enough of the screw head away that the corrosion will not longer hold it and it will just unscrew out easily.
I did this exact same thing with the screw that holds the cap on a motorcycle brake reservoir. The "screw out" just kept drilling (slowly) out the screw head till there was hardly any of it left, then all of a sudden, the "screw out" grabbed and remove the remainder of the screw. Now, having a screw extractor already in there may indeed complicate matters.

turbo_pwr

Would this have helped? There is a 3pc set for $20 also. They also have one for striped bolts.

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/pr...pid=00952156000

schwett

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper
[B].....

turbo_pwr

WOW!

modifry

This may not help in your particular case or if the screw is really messed up but. . .

I have a little tube of stuff called "Screw Grab". I have had it so long I have no idea where I bought it, and the tube gives no clue as to the manufacturer. It was about $5 for a half-ounce tube, but it's the cat's ass for removing boogered-up philips screws.

You put a drop of it on the screwdriver tip and it works wonders. It contains some kind of gritty substance - ground metal shavings or something - really fine particles that increases the friction between the screwdriver tip and the screw, allowing the tip to bite into the screw. It won't work if there's no screw head left, but it works great most of the time.

I just recently used it on my rear-view mirror that the moron windshield mechanic (term used loosely) managed to mess up pretty good. It was impossible to get the screw tight enough to keep the mirror on the windshield till I used the 'ole Screw Grap techinque. If anybody finds where you can get this stuff let me know, I'd buy another tube just in case I lose this one.

Oh, if you want to see pics of the windshield change from hell, go here

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