I tried doing a search for this, but the search engine is down. I am about to replace my clutch in my S2k nd I am looking for some tips, instructions, etc. I am going to do this work myself and was looking into before I do it. I am replacing it with a ACT street clutch. From what I undestand, this is just like the OEM.

Anyone have any comments, tips, links to instructions?

Chip

 

The ACT is a reworked stock clutch with copper threads. I'd get a different clutch that is more then just a reworked unit (the clutchmaster clutch is better from what i've read). I dunno about hints or tips since I've never pulled the tranny on this car. I do know you have to remove a lot of stuff to get to the bolts on the top of the bellhousing. Anyway, I have the factory service manual so if you don't have a copy I can copy the pages and post them for you.

 

That would be great. I do not have the manual.

I got the clutch already (ACT Street Clutc), so I can't send it back. Why is this one not as good as the one you mentioned?

 

There is absolutely no way you should attempt to change the clutch on this car without the service manual. Here's why: you have to drop the front subframe 3" to get access to the upper trans bolts. In order to drop the front subframe, you have to disconnect EVERYTHING from the engine (the only thing holding the engine to the car will be the mounts) and you have to disconnect the steering rack. It's a big ordeal. I did mine myself, but I wouldn't dream of trying this without the service manual.

Don't be a cheapskate, the service manual costs, what? $45? $60? Give me a serious break. I see way too many people on this board playing with their cars without looking through the service manual. It's one thing if you change your brake pads without looking up the torque spec for the caliper bolt. But trying to change the clutch without the service manual is like wearing a Confederate flag/KKK hat into South Central LA. Yeah, you might make it through ok... But probably not.

BTW, I have the ACT pressure plate and I'm happy with it. But it's a little hard on the ankle for driving in traffic. The extra pedal effort isn't really a big problem day to day, just when you're in traffic.

 

I agree with you, that is why I am asking about instructions, etc. I didn't know if this this was available on the internet like it was on my Miata. Is there a cheaper place to get them other then the dealer?

 

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp

 

Make sure to mark the exact spline position on the coupler for the steering prior to disconnecting it or you'll be realigning it again after you've put all the tools away .

 

Oh yeah, one more thing, the furthest back hole in the exhaust heat shield (the black sheet metal thing between the battery and the valve cover) is actually a slot so don't bother taking that screw out all the way, just loosen in (it's one of those half a flat keep flipping the box end wrench back and forth if you take it out all the way deals). And yes, I am speaking from first hand experience

 

This sounds like a PITA to do. I thought the Miata was bad.....

 

Serious PITA, make me wish I had a POS Camaro or some sh!t