Results of Emanage and 550cc went bad
Originally Posted by AusS2000,Sep 27 2004, 12:47 PM
discussion boards but the consensus is that the manual should read either '50% bigger' or '150% of original'.

100% is stock size so 150% means stock size x 1.5
380cc x 1.5 = 570cc
Originally Posted by honda9krpm,Sep 27 2004, 02:48 PM
Juan, some source say that the stock one is 360cc.
Bottom line is that its sitting around the limit.
Bottom line is that its sitting around the limit.
I herad about that but I could not found any proof, Martucci has made a test flow to the OEM injectors and they made 380cc.
Anyway with 550cc and stock frp should be enough for the Vortech and the emanage can handle 550cc with out any problem.
Juan
I purchased a aftermarket walboro fuel pump 255lph for about $100. I know there was a post somewhere that listed the part number of that fuel pump that you can order on the web. I'm sure that the aftermarket fuel pump is cheaper than a oem fuel pump from honda.
If you really want the stock oem fuel pump - pm me - perhaps I 'll sell you my stock one for cheap.
I'va also heard that the stock fpr can not handle the fuel flow with aftermarket injectors. Get either the AEM or SARD unit. You can add a B&M fuel pressure gauge cheap - $30 There is a link to a DIY for the install.
If you really want the stock oem fuel pump - pm me - perhaps I 'll sell you my stock one for cheap.
I'va also heard that the stock fpr can not handle the fuel flow with aftermarket injectors. Get either the AEM or SARD unit. You can add a B&M fuel pressure gauge cheap - $30 There is a link to a DIY for the install.
Originally Posted by home13oy75,Sep 27 2004, 10:19 AM
I'va also heard that the stock fpr can not handle the fuel flow with aftermarket injectors. Get either the AEM or SARD unit. You can add a B&M fuel pressure gauge cheap - $30 There is a link to a DIY for the install.
Plus I contacted Vortech today, they said the one that comes with our kit is at a constant of 80psi and at 35gph. With the Fuel pressure gauge would i be able to figure which is the problem factor?
@my
You'll need to hook up a gauge to the fuel rail with the engine running. You should have at least 38-46 psi at idle with the stock regulator. You can add another 7.5 psi to that pressure reading under max boost. So at 9K rpm you should have 45-54 psi. Each psi of boost pressure to the stock regulator will increase the static fuel pressure the same amount.
As far as the gauge goes, you have a few options. Drill and tap the fuel rail for a permanently mounted gauge. Or try and source the honda fuel pressure gauge that attaches in place of the fuel pulsation damper.
Before you do any of this, I'd make sure the fuel feed hose to the fuel rail isn't pinchd or crimped. The fuel lines run under the intake manifold ad can be a real pain to reach. Make sure that when you removed the FMU you didn't pinch/crimp the hose.
As far as the gauge goes, you have a few options. Drill and tap the fuel rail for a permanently mounted gauge. Or try and source the honda fuel pressure gauge that attaches in place of the fuel pulsation damper.
Before you do any of this, I'd make sure the fuel feed hose to the fuel rail isn't pinchd or crimped. The fuel lines run under the intake manifold ad can be a real pain to reach. Make sure that when you removed the FMU you didn't pinch/crimp the hose.
well, i just got back from picking up a "liquid" fuel pressure gauge. I think i was suckered into buying it, he says its better than a regular??
anyhow, they said best way is to extend from the fuel line coming from the tank. and tee the fuel pressure gauge between since I don't have a external fuel filter to tap into.
I just picked up the fittings at a local hardware store that carried the fittings. I hope to check it out tonight. Looks like its kinda hard to get to, but a consensus of peeps say it may most likely be the fuel pump. But hell at the worst I change both fpr and pump.....
I'm really grateful to everyone that's responded.
I get so close everytime to getting the a/f down but always run into walls.
Hopefully the problem is cornered and I get it back to Church.
@my
anyhow, they said best way is to extend from the fuel line coming from the tank. and tee the fuel pressure gauge between since I don't have a external fuel filter to tap into.
I just picked up the fittings at a local hardware store that carried the fittings. I hope to check it out tonight. Looks like its kinda hard to get to, but a consensus of peeps say it may most likely be the fuel pump. But hell at the worst I change both fpr and pump.....
I'm really grateful to everyone that's responded.
I get so close everytime to getting the a/f down but always run into walls.
Hopefully the problem is cornered and I get it back to Church.
@my
Update: well, ran into probs with the fitting. the inline fuel hose doesn't fit the brass fitting we got it was a little bit too big. so i won't know till tomorrow night what the situation is once i get some new ones after work.
But i had the weird thump noise again when i turned the key to On position earlier it made a thump hollow like noise maybe air releasing or no flow in fuel? and i tried cranking her over to start but it took quite a few cranks to start her over. Does this sound like a classic fuel pump problem?
it was the same the other night. like air releasing or hollow thump noise when i turned the engine to on but didn't start it. when i do attempt to start it, it takes quite a few cranks to start it up.
I know its hard to explain but i'm trying to see if anyone else has had this situation with the wierd noise.
it only happened once and then when i turned it off and turned the key to On again it didn't make any funny noise.
@my
But i had the weird thump noise again when i turned the key to On position earlier it made a thump hollow like noise maybe air releasing or no flow in fuel? and i tried cranking her over to start but it took quite a few cranks to start her over. Does this sound like a classic fuel pump problem?
it was the same the other night. like air releasing or hollow thump noise when i turned the engine to on but didn't start it. when i do attempt to start it, it takes quite a few cranks to start it up.
I know its hard to explain but i'm trying to see if anyone else has had this situation with the wierd noise.
it only happened once and then when i turned it off and turned the key to On again it didn't make any funny noise.
@my







