nureulwihaesuh

hi you all, i need help out here. my car(MY00)'s rpm drops and car shutters when idle especially with a/c on?then it kinda recovers itself, but not good enough. then it gets back to normal, but it is very annoying and i actually hate driving my S because of this...without a/c on, this happens sometime and the rpm stays idle at about 900 when normal. yes i did the MAP sensor wiggle or whack with ecu. this is not it. what could this be? also my clutch is ACT, and the prev. owner put that in, and the clutch is definatelly shallower than stock one. this might be caused by this? also when i shift at around 5000-6400rpm, the car grinds ONLY in first to second.
my guesses are.....
1. valve adjustment?
2. gatta adjust the depth of clutch to deeper?
3. my car just fawked? lolD
help would be appreciated.
thanks guys
John.

jyeung528

dunno

VTEC4-2

Try the valve adjustment first. If you have the tools, do it yourself it doesn't cost anything.

xviper

I'm guessing that this has just started since you began to use the A/C again after a period of non-use?
Before you go ripping the valve cover off and tearing your clutch apart, give your car's ECU a chance to "learn". I think it's just having a bit of a momentary brain fart. When you start using your A/C again, sometimes the added parasitic draw of the compressor (combined with decreasing road speed and engine speed as you come to a stop) can fool the ECU slightly and it takes a few "near death" episodes for it to figure out that it needs to adjust the idle to compensate. Don't fight it by giving it gas at that moment. Let it stumble a bit or the ECU will take even longer to learn. Give it 4 to 5 episodes and if it doesn't learn by then, reset the ECU to force it start the "learning" process. This is far less invasive and cheaper than the other two options you are pondering. Then look toward stuff like the idle air control mechanism. This has a valve/solenoid that has been the root of a few such problems.
If your car runs and idles fine when the A/C is not in use, why would you suddenly think it needs a valve adjustment or a new clutch? I'm not saying you don't need a valve adjust, but I'm not saying you do either. Nor am I saying there is nothing wrong with your clutch, but I'm not saying there is either. These things are not necessarily related. Although a valve adjustment is a no cost operation if you do it yourself, it is easy to get it WRONG! There have been enough reported cases of screwed up home valve adjusts that maybe you should leave it alone if it doesn't really need it? And are you prepared to spend over a grand for a clutch job just because the engine nearly stalls when you put on your A/C?
An no, I don't think your car is "fawked".