Folks,

I'm going to flush my brake lines and switch out my front and rear brake pads tomorrow (Thanksgiving day project). Unfortunately, I do not have the Helm's manual. Is there anything special that I should know before attempting this job? Does anybody have any of the relevant torque specs?

Thanks in advance.

 

Where are you located? I'd be more than happy to drop by and supervise I did mine and it was easy. You need to get a piston retractor tool from Kragen or Pep Boys for the rear calipers and a C-clamp for the fronts. I used one of those Quik-Grip clamps with ratcheting pistol grip. I can offer my manual if you need it, it's pretty idiot proof.

For bleeding, 20 pumps for the rears and 10 for the fronts, maybe 15 for R front should do it. Gimme a call, the number is on the Contact Us page.

 

It's fairly straightforward. The rears have a screw type piston. You'll need to retract them by twisting rather than pushing. There's a tool for it (the universal one that fits your ratchet works OK). Some said they could do without the tool. I found I needed it.
Don't forget blue loctite on the caliper bolts and don't forget anti-squeal compound.

I don't know the torque specs or the bleeding order. Generally, though, you'll start at the caliper farthest from the master (RR). Have fun and make sure you get all the brake fluid off your hands before attacking any bird.

 

Torque specs:
Front 32 n-m, 24lb/ft
Rear 23 n-m, 17lb/ft

You can use almost anything to retract the rear piston. Greg uses a shelf bracket. I have used wrench handles, screw drivers, and the ratchet attachment that was mentioned.

Good luck,
Tanq

 

loctite???

 

If you change out your rear pads before the fronts (start with right rear), you'll have an easier time retracting the rear pistons. I do mine with a combination of a crescent wrench and the long bar with the hook at the end of it in your tire replacement kit to do the rear pistons.

Also, is loctite really necessary for the caliper bolts?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by reecespieces
[B]If you change out your rear pads before the fronts (start with right rear), you'll have an easier time retracting the rear pistons.

 

Don't forget to remove fluid from the resevoir BEFORE retracting the caliper. Use a turkey baster and remove it ALL and be sure to check it to make sure it doesn't overflow after retracting each caliper. Retracting the pistons will force fluid back into the resevoir which will overflow and make a monsterous mess. It's also not a good idea to get the stuff on the paint, it will desolve it. The rears are a bitch to get started but once you get the piston turning it goes pretty easy. The trick is to use the proper tool or find a suitable makeshift hunk of metal. I used a stop bracket off a bench belt sander wrapped in a show towel.

 

I use a bare 3/8" ratchet to retract the rear calipers, the nub fits nicely and is easy to turn back in, also as you are bleeding your brakes make sure your reservoir is full of fluid and check often otherwise you may get air in the lines.

 

Cthree, thanks for your offer to help, and thanks to everyone else for all of the suggestions! Fortunately, the brake job went fairly uneventfully using standard tools, and braking is much improved with the Panther + F/R4S R pads as compared to stock. I can't wait to try them out on the track (Dec. 2)!