S2000 Starting Issue
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S2000 Starting Issue
Good afternoon everyone! I went to take my S2000 for a drive today and it seems to be having issues starting. I just recently changed the oil and transmission fluid and it has been running great. I also recently (2 months ago) replaced the battery with an OEM from Honda. I went to start it today and this is what happened:
https://youtu.be/_MMgqVeGlEI
If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
https://youtu.be/_MMgqVeGlEI
If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Joined: Jul 2013
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That's a battery or starter cable or starter relay issue. First check the battery, may have been a defective one, or maybe you left a light on or something. Check the starter relay next, then see if there's a voltage drop by hooking up a dvom to the positive terminal and the starter cable.
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bumping an old thread. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
I have this exact issue. My battery was recently replaced (about a year old). When I go to start my engine, I get about one crank and then the starter runs out of juice. My battery reads 12.3V, so it doesn't appear to be the problem.
I have this exact issue. My battery was recently replaced (about a year old). When I go to start my engine, I get about one crank and then the starter runs out of juice. My battery reads 12.3V, so it doesn't appear to be the problem.
Joined: Aug 2016
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From: In BOOST
Bumping an old thread. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
I have this exact issue. My battery was recently replaced (about a year old). When I go to start my engine, I get about one crank and then the starter runs out of juice. My battery reads 12.3V, so it doesn't appear to be the problem.
I have this exact issue. My battery was recently replaced (about a year old). When I go to start my engine, I get about one crank and then the starter runs out of juice. My battery reads 12.3V, so it doesn't appear to be the problem.
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Chesterfield VA
A new battery is seldom bad but stuff happens. Cables need to be clean and tight. Our cars all have parasitic battery discharge which drain the battery in a couple of weeks in severe cases and starting batteries only get a couple dozen deep discharges before they're scrap.
Battery voltage is one way of determining battery capacity. In this last case it's a bit under 70% capacity. Not good but should start the car lacking other factors. Note voltage is deceptive as it can look good after a 10 minute charge but that's just the surface charge. 24 hour charge followed by 24 hours complete rest (disconnected from all loads) and then a voltage check is the best practice.
The other factor is voltage under load and that requires a specialized albeit inexpensive meter sold by dozens of sources including Harbor Freight. They ALL look like this and I suspect are all the same device from the same PRC factory with different brand names. Basically an electrical resistor/heater element in a protected case. This same meter will read the at-rest voltage too so only one instrument is needed.
-- Chuck
Battery voltage is one way of determining battery capacity. In this last case it's a bit under 70% capacity. Not good but should start the car lacking other factors. Note voltage is deceptive as it can look good after a 10 minute charge but that's just the surface charge. 24 hour charge followed by 24 hours complete rest (disconnected from all loads) and then a voltage check is the best practice.
The other factor is voltage under load and that requires a specialized albeit inexpensive meter sold by dozens of sources including Harbor Freight. They ALL look like this and I suspect are all the same device from the same PRC factory with different brand names. Basically an electrical resistor/heater element in a protected case. This same meter will read the at-rest voltage too so only one instrument is needed.
-- Chuck
Joined: Aug 2012
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You migjt have a parasitic drain that is constantly sucking juice out of your battery, so its always weak, unless you restart shortly after a long drive. Longer it sits, weaker it gets.
To test for parasitic drain, get an ammeter (amps meter), most dvm have this, or use a 12v test light, and connect as follows.
Disconnect one of the battery terminals. Connect the meter, or test light, between battery terminal and cable. Do not turn on key at all, leave key outta ignition.
Read how much current is flowing, or how bright light glows. Ideally you'd want zero current, but reality is ecu and radio memory (and alarm of have one) use some juice will car sits unused. If too much current, something is on, or some electrical issue exists that is constantly sucking juice from battery.
To test for parasitic drain, get an ammeter (amps meter), most dvm have this, or use a 12v test light, and connect as follows.
Disconnect one of the battery terminals. Connect the meter, or test light, between battery terminal and cable. Do not turn on key at all, leave key outta ignition.
Read how much current is flowing, or how bright light glows. Ideally you'd want zero current, but reality is ecu and radio memory (and alarm of have one) use some juice will car sits unused. If too much current, something is on, or some electrical issue exists that is constantly sucking juice from battery.
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