bgoetz

I had a weird chain of events that is making it difficult to diagnose this cell. On my way to have a test pipe install/tune I drove through a massive puddle, I just couldn't avoid it. Right afterwards I through a CEL, we pulled the codes and cleared it at the shop. Codes were P0136, 137, and 157, all secondary O2 related. The thought was that the quick cooling of the exhaust tripped the sensor.

We installed the test pipe and defowler 50-60 miles later I threw the same code. Thinking maybe water got in the plug I sprayed some electronic cleaner in it and reattached, then cleared the CEL. 50-60 miles later CEL, same codes.

At this point I am not sure if our original theory was correct and the code is now from a poorly adjusted defowler or if I ruined the secondary O2. I would like to be sure because they are expensive as heck.

My next question is does it really even effect how the car runs? I don't feel much of a change, if anything I would say it runs worse right after clearing it then with the CEL on, but not sure if that makes sense.

s2000Junky

These days, factory pnp 02 sensors are available through Denso and Bosch for our car, which can be found online through Amazon and Ebay as well as Oriely's and Autozone and possibly others for about $60. I recently replaced both my primary and secondary 02 sensors. I refused to spend the kind of money Honda wanted, so with some research I was able to find them and they work, no issues. If you spend $300 for a Honda factory sensor these days you would be silly. Just replace the sensor in question and be done with it. Or replace them both if you are having trouble depicting the proper one. The only difference between the two OEM sensors is the plug. One is a male and and one is a female and that's what tells you if its the primary/upstream or secondary/downstream.

I was also able to source a AEM wideband sensor for replacement (which is a Bosch unit) for $34, which is a lot better then the $90 AEM wants for the exact same sensor.

bgoetz

Do you need to physically wire the O2 to the plug them or does it literally just plug right up?

So this is the OEM one would it just plug right in?

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/261927000780

Even at Autozone they want $300. I am just trying to figure out the difference.

noodels

Cel light on = it will run the Base factory map.

bgoetz

I am not following you? What is it running with the CEL light off?

I am using a VAFC to tune if that makes any difference in your response.

dagle

There are plug-and-play ones available through NGK and bosch that don't involve splicing. I ordered a primary a couple of weeks ago and it was one of the more painless installs since owning the car. (I had a plastic bag melted to my cat/o2 sensor too)

bgoetz

I tried cleaning the actual sensor, not sure if this was a bad or good idea, but I figure I had nothing to lose. We will see if it comes back. If it does I think a wire might be busted from taking it off/on without unclipping it from the car (i.e. Twisting the wire).

Do you think the one I linked above is plug and play?

s2000Junky

What he is referring to is none of the short term fuel trims are active, it just runs a base tune, closed loop isn't operating in normal fashion.

flanders

Error codes for the secondary sensor shouldn't affect how the car is running, that sensors only duty is to check that the cat is working properly.
Check rockauto for cheap sensors, think they got a pnp Denso for $29

s2000Junky

This is the primary/upstream sensor i have been running since May. $35! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage. I don't know if you need the up or downstream, but the downstream i just picked up at Orielys for $60. These are all true pnp, exact same sensors as what you pay $300 through Honda or special order through other parts stores. Makes absolutely no sense to me, but never the less it is what it is. For 1/3 the cost of 1 "honda" sensors, you can be outfitted with both new sensors.