My clutch is slipping and I'm wondering if a specific part is to blame (maybe the clutch/friction disc) so that I can just replace/repair that part? I don't really want to pay $1000 for an aftermarket setup right now.

 

Is it slipping when fully engaged or just weak when you let it out? If you put it in 6th at a 50mph cruise then floor it, does it hold or slip? How many miles on the car?

Peter

 

42.5k miles and it will slip if I floor it in any gear.

 

The driver?

 

Have you done anything lately that might have glazed the clutch disk? If the problem is just glazing you *may* be able to wear the glazing off with some careful driving. Otherwise, you probably need a new clutch disk.

Clutch disks usually last me 100,000 miles or more, but both driving conditions and driving style can shorten (or lengthen) clutch life.

Replacing the disk is not going to be cheap, so if you're ever going to upgrade the clutch, this is the time to do it.

 

There is a lot of labor involed in replacing the clutch on this car. This is something that should be done the right way the first time around. This means replacing the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, (why do ya think they call it a throw out bearing ) the pressure plate if it has burn marks on it and definately resurface the flywheel.

You could go the cheap route and just replace the clutch disk, but it will suck when your clutch goes out again within 15-30k miles.

 

when it comes to upgrade a clutch, how do we know which kind to get, stage and brand wise, etc? Stage 1, 2, 3? Also, what are pros & cons of using a stainless steel clutch line? Are they used with stock or upgraded clutch kits? How are these supposed to affect the clutch pedal? Are these worth getting?

 

Just replace all your clutch components with OEM ($400ish). If you want to upgrade for ~$200 more, get a mugen, spoon, act heavy duty or equivalent pressure plate. Have whoever does the work resurface the flywheel. If you're going to pay for all that labor ($700 from Honda when I had mine done), you might as well have them do it all while they're in there.

 

It is the friction disk that is not holding. Since labor is the biggest part of clutch work most replace all parts. You can simply sand (regular 100 grit sandpaper) the FW and the PP to avoid replacing them most of the time for some savings.

 

Selecting a clutch upgrade is just like selecting any other upgrades, and the "best choice" depends on what you're trying to achieve. Even with FI most S2000s don't need anything more than a "Stage 1" clutch setup, but when my stock clutch goes away I'll be replacing it with an Exedy dual plate "Stage 2" system (flywheel, pressure plate, and carbon clutch disks) because I know the carbon disks work well on the street and I want the lower rotating mass of the dual plate setup. I'll actually be putting more clutch in the car than it needs (or will ever need) and the performance gains probably won't justify the expense, but it will give the car a clutch and flywheel that have characteristics that I know I like.

Basically I think you've got two choices; You can take the advice of the people here on S2kI or elsewhere, or you can talk to the manufacturers and decide for yourself what kind of setup will best suit your goals and needs.

Unless you're having corrosion issues I can't see much benefit from stainless steel lines, but they do look cool.