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brushing it on in the inner arch/lip gets into all of the small crevices, and works well. On the outer lip I liked to use a small foam paint roller, it goes on nice and neat with a smooth finish. The good thing about this is the simplicity and cheap cost. If it wears down a couple years down the road you can touch it up for 10 bucks and it blends right in. If you starve metal of oxygen and moisture it shouldn't rust, so it seals up quiet well with this method.
You wouldn't see much of it in California. It is an issue where you get moisture - rain, snow - combined with salt. The rubber strips are loose enough to allow moisture to fill the voids , but tight enough to not fall off. Over time they can cause rust. The metal back-bone inside the rubber strips can rust as well and it makes the matter worse.
I pulled the strips of and filled them with Anti-rust grease (Mike Sanders, german brand..) and placed them back. Done.
Cool. Sounds like an effective solution. Unfortunately since that product doesn't seem to be feasibly available here, nor similar product, doesn't seem possible to replicate that solution.
be good idea for preventative maintenance in the handbook
They do to a certain degree. One of the tips is how to clean it and also not to reuse the trim due to the steel core bending inside. I wonder if a lot of people have rust because they reused their trim, or bought from someone who popped it on and off and they didn't know.
Also read my earlier post about the sealant and how it relates to the manual instructions.
@ Car Analogy: Right. Valid Point. But i think that every "stiff" grease will work. Boat grease for example. Or you personal Favorite Anti-rust Wax, fluid film, what ever.
BTW, it is said - and i belive it - that Mike Sanders grease should be the same as a grease called "PX 11" used by the british army to protect guns, gun barrels etc. from rust: 90% technical, stiff vaseline / petroleum Jelly and 10% Bee Wax.
remove and clean..
