S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Spark Plugs

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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:03 AM
  #21  
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Agreed but since the copper is more conductive/less likely to overheat and I only put maybe 9k a year its worth it for me.


Looking for anyway I can to maximize performance/mpg.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #22  
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All NGK plugs have copper cores. If you buy 'copper' plugs, they are still plated with something, possibly a nickel chrome alloy. If they didn't they'd melt/wear out very quickly.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:44 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dwight
All NGK plugs have copper cores. If you buy 'copper' plugs, they are still plated with something, possibly a nickel chrome alloy. If they didn't they'd melt/wear out very quickly.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf
^ this, along with what Dwight said I prefer a fine wire center electrode plug (along the lines of the oem plugs) thy fire more efficiently over various air-fuel ratios and compression ratios as compared to a typical copper plug larger tip and they are just as efficient as coppers as they are copper cores. I also like to see tapered ground electrodes (NGK - IX series) but the oem style plugs don't use the tapered ground. As Billman250 has said the less times you have to swap plugs the better as aluminum threads have a service life to them. I've never had issues with head plug threads but I know what he means when it comes to aluminum threads on any part, there is always a chance they can strip.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #24  
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Thanks to DWIGHT Im confused again. lol.
I called NGK , no answer. This sucks. I just want to know which one is better for me aghhhhhhh

Every plugs internal core is copper. Tip is plated with another substance. So which is better!
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:24 AM
  #25  
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Just spend $34 and get either set you mentioned in your first post and you'll be good for at least 5 years.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JFUSION
Originally Posted by dwight' timestamp='1331223126' post='21489662
All NGK plugs have copper cores. If you buy 'copper' plugs, they are still plated with something, possibly a nickel chrome alloy. If they didn't they'd melt/wear out very quickly.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf
^ this, along with what Dwight said I prefer a fine wire center electrode plug (along the lines of the oem plugs) thy fire more efficiently over various air-fuel ratios and compression ratios as compared to a typical copper plug larger tip and they are just as efficient as coppers as they are copper cores. I also like to see tapered ground electrodes (NGK - IX series) but the oem style plugs don't use the tapered ground. As Billman250 has said the less times you have to swap plugs the better as aluminum threads have a service life to them. I've never had issues with head plug threads but I know what he means when it comes to aluminum threads on any part, there is always a chance they can strip.
Yeah. The smaller electrode will spark more easily.
http://www.physicsclassroom.com/clas...tics/u8l4d.cfm

It doesn't matter if it's 1% chance or one in a million. Five times longer life means five times less the chance of screwing something up.

When I got my car, I did a VA and checked the plugs. They were within spec. I ordered new plugs to change them out, but I've haven't been driving the S2000 much so the plugs are still sitting on the shelf.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 08:48 AM
  #27  
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so should I re-gap my to stock spec or just leave them alone? I understand you don't want to re-gap iridium as you can damage it however there are ways to re-gap it by the electrode. let me know what would be the benefit of leaving it is or re-gapping it to stock gap. will there be any damage if gap incorrectly?
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 03:46 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by silvermonster
so should I re-gap my to stock spec or just leave them alone? I understand you don't want to re-gap iridium as you can damage it however there are ways to re-gap it by the electrode. let me know what would be the benefit of leaving it is or re-gapping it to stock gap. will there be any damage if gap incorrectly?
with the oem type of plugs they don't recommend re-gapping, if they are out of spec just replace them. Too many people will damage the plugs while re-gapping, they say just checking the gap will scuff the coating on the center electrode. Once the center electrode wears a significant amount you would end up having to lower the ground electrode a decent amount and you end up with an oddly shaped plug where the ground electrode is cocked at an odd angle. If the gap is .051" or greater just replace the plugs. While I'm totally confident in my ability to re-gap a plug I would not do it to the oem style of plug, just replace them.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 04:51 PM
  #29  
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thnx for the response. I understand gapping irridum is dangerous. I'm asking the spark plug that i got is a one step colder than stock and it comes pre-gap at .32 whereas the stock plugs are at .44

my question what is the harm if i leave them at .32?
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by silvermonster
thnx for the response. I understand gapping irridum is dangerous. I'm asking the spark plug that i got is a one step colder than stock and it comes pre-gap at .32 whereas the stock plugs are at .44

my question what is the harm if i leave them at .32?
You can safely open up the gap, just take your time and be careful. The factory plugs start at .039" so they can take their time growing up to the service limit of .051". I'd take yours up to .039", you could go to .043" if you don't mind changing them a bit sooner down the road.
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