Spring Installation
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Joined: Mar 2002
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You don't really need any special tools, but a spring compressor is recommended for removing the OEM springs from the shocks. When removing / installing the assemblies on the front, don't pop the lower ball joint like the Helm's manual discribes. It is much easier to detach the upper control arm. It should take 2-3 hours total.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 776
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From: Fresno
NO step by step, though its pretty easy, alst time i did it, there was only like 3 bolts to undo for the front, and like 4 in the back (each) Moving the gas filler is a PITA though, but with a lil love and the right tools (metric sockets) you can get it easily ,just take your time and youll be done in under 2-3 hours.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 3
From: Murray, UT
We did this a couple of weeks ago. It was a first time for us, and we basically used the instructions out of the library, here's the link https://www.s2ki.com/article/articleview/112/1/50/
Right or wrong here are some "hints" from our experience:
Make sure that anything that will move when the "A" arms are disconnected has enough slack to accomodate the removal. Things like brake lines, and anti-lock brake sensor wiring. You may need to disonnect some attachment points to accomodate removal, we did.
The Helms manual recommends replacing the nuts that hold the springs to the struts. These nuts have a plastic insert that works like a lock-washer. Of course the nuts are not in stock at the Honda dealer. We just used some lock-tite on re-installation.
Make sure the new spring is seated properly in the strut on re-installation. There's a piece of rubber molding in the bottom strut seat. It was worn down to metal on the strut in a couple of places. We decided what the heck and used some Shin-Etsu silicone grease on all the rubber we could find on the strut.
We had an air-driven ratchet which made this quite a bit easier. You really don't need a spring compressor. Most of the tension is released from the springs when the car is on jack stands. We just put a blanket over the front strut when removing the nut off the top of the strut.
Don't bust the ball joints, just use the instructions in the link to disconnect the upper and lower "A" arms. Make sure you load the suspension as described in the instructions before tightening up the "A" arm attachment bolts. Use a torque wrench to get all the torques correct. I can't remember what the torque values are, but they were different upper and lower, somewhere in the 35 to 47 ft-lb range.
Right or wrong here are some "hints" from our experience:
Make sure that anything that will move when the "A" arms are disconnected has enough slack to accomodate the removal. Things like brake lines, and anti-lock brake sensor wiring. You may need to disonnect some attachment points to accomodate removal, we did.
The Helms manual recommends replacing the nuts that hold the springs to the struts. These nuts have a plastic insert that works like a lock-washer. Of course the nuts are not in stock at the Honda dealer. We just used some lock-tite on re-installation.
Make sure the new spring is seated properly in the strut on re-installation. There's a piece of rubber molding in the bottom strut seat. It was worn down to metal on the strut in a couple of places. We decided what the heck and used some Shin-Etsu silicone grease on all the rubber we could find on the strut.
We had an air-driven ratchet which made this quite a bit easier. You really don't need a spring compressor. Most of the tension is released from the springs when the car is on jack stands. We just put a blanket over the front strut when removing the nut off the top of the strut.
Don't bust the ball joints, just use the instructions in the link to disconnect the upper and lower "A" arms. Make sure you load the suspension as described in the instructions before tightening up the "A" arm attachment bolts. Use a torque wrench to get all the torques correct. I can't remember what the torque values are, but they were different upper and lower, somewhere in the 35 to 47 ft-lb range.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: High Point, NC
Gloffer, you mentioned no spring compressor was necessary at removal. When you installed the new springs did you have to compress the new springs to get the top of the shock housing to "lock in" to place?
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 3
From: Murray, UT
If your asking if we could put the spring back on the strut without a spring compressor, then the answer is: the spring just fits on the strut. For the rear springs the nut that holds the spring to the strut is also the same nut that holds the strut assembly to car inside the trunk. We fit the assembly up into the upper mounting point and then threaded that nut on loosely. We then worked on getting the strut back into the "A" arm. On the fronts the spring hold down nut is installed before you re-install the strut assembly in the car. The front spring too just goes on the strut, no spring compressor required. If you don't get new nuts as specified in the Helms manual, then it would be a good idea to use some Lock-Tite on the spring mounting nuts.
If your asking if a spring compressor is need to install the strut assemblies back in the car, then the answer is also no. The strut assembly just fit back where we took it out from. With the car up in the air you have to remember the suspension is fully extended already. With that and the loosening/removal of the "A" arms, enough room is provided for the extended spring to fit on re-installation.
You just have to make sure you compress the assembly by placing a floor jack under the lower "A" arm before you re-torque the "A" arm bolts. During the spring installation we had the car up on all four corners. We made sure each spring was fully compressed by raising the car an inch or so off the jack stand on the corner we were working on before torquing the "A" arm bolts.
If your asking if a spring compressor is need to install the strut assemblies back in the car, then the answer is also no. The strut assembly just fit back where we took it out from. With the car up in the air you have to remember the suspension is fully extended already. With that and the loosening/removal of the "A" arms, enough room is provided for the extended spring to fit on re-installation.
You just have to make sure you compress the assembly by placing a floor jack under the lower "A" arm before you re-torque the "A" arm bolts. During the spring installation we had the car up on all four corners. We made sure each spring was fully compressed by raising the car an inch or so off the jack stand on the corner we were working on before torquing the "A" arm bolts.