sputering along
I am just wondering if anyone would know what I did. First off I have an VAFC and (the way it was tuned) I would get a check engine light if I held it at the Vtec cross over. One day I got the CEL and decided instead of waiting it out (the light would shut off after it saw it was a soft code) I would pull the fuse to reset it. The car has been acting up ever since then The car bucks and sputters on take off and sometimes just cruising along the highway. I'm just wondering if I confused the ECU or VAFC in any way when I pulled that fuse. I go to Honda tomorrow to get it checked out, but I don't know if they will find anything out being the way that it is. All help is appreciated. Well cheers.-Rob
This is driving me nuts please help out if anyone thinks they might know... In addition to above I took it to Honda and got one code...that it was running too rich and the only thing I could do was to take it to a tuner. Ok easy fix right, Wrong.
I get to the tuners, after a day of leaving it there, and the bottom end was running too rich but after he stepped on it would go way way lean, so he would let off before the engine blew!! He told me that it was the FMU, what honda kinda hinted around that it was...here's the thing though, I replaced that when I installed the Vortech and this problem started showing small signs the day before I had it installed, so that tells me it's not the FMU unless two of them were bad...and thats not too likely. I think now it might be the fuel pressure regulator or the O2 sensors, but I don't want to spend anymore money than I already have just guessing. Please help if you can thank you-Rob
I get to the tuners, after a day of leaving it there, and the bottom end was running too rich but after he stepped on it would go way way lean, so he would let off before the engine blew!! He told me that it was the FMU, what honda kinda hinted around that it was...here's the thing though, I replaced that when I installed the Vortech and this problem started showing small signs the day before I had it installed, so that tells me it's not the FMU unless two of them were bad...and thats not too likely. I think now it might be the fuel pressure regulator or the O2 sensors, but I don't want to spend anymore money than I already have just guessing. Please help if you can thank you-Rob
I think you need to re-state your post title. Even though you have your S/C in your sig, you didn't mention it in your first post. You've got to state all your facts up front, list the actual PXXXX codes, be more thorough. I'd re-post..."Sputter/CEL on S/C'd with VAFC...input appreciated"
Does the V-AFC hold memory even when all power is lost? If not, then maybe the V-AFC reset itself and you need to get the engine re-tuned. Other than that, I dont see how just pulling the fuse could do what it's doing.
Yes, VAFC remembers it's settings.
I had no idea we were talking about an SC'd car, either here or in the other thread.
First things first, in what order do you have the Vortech Split Second unit and the VAFC? Both splice the MAP line. The Split second unit clamps it to 2.9V. The VAFC uses it to fool the ECU into injecting more or less fuel.
So if you clamp it first, then the VAFC ups it the ECU is seeing boost, retards timing and stuffs everything up. If you have the VAFC first then it modifies the signal, but the SS unit clamps is, so effectively it does nothing.
I'm not a big believer in the VAFC for FI. I believe the only way to use it in this situation is to up the fuel pressure (with the Comptech that's a matter of turning the screw. With the Vortech you'd have to replace the FPR with an adjustable one) so it is always rich, then use the V-AFC to pull fuel. As you'll be sending a comparatively low MAP signal to the ECU it will probably advance timing quite a bit which could cause more problems.
As I say, I don't think the VAFC is good for FI as it can't really add fuel without complications. There's only one guy I know who swears by the V-AFC with his Vortech, but he's gone real quiet now since he blew his engine.
If you want better control, consider the E-manage. It can actually drive the injectors so it will add more fuel without the secondary effects. Kane has one for sale cheap in the For Sale forum.
BTW, by way of credentials, I am running a Comptech SC with 8lbs pulley, E-manage, 440cc injectors and Sard FPR. 214rwkw on a Dynapack.
I had no idea we were talking about an SC'd car, either here or in the other thread.
First things first, in what order do you have the Vortech Split Second unit and the VAFC? Both splice the MAP line. The Split second unit clamps it to 2.9V. The VAFC uses it to fool the ECU into injecting more or less fuel.
So if you clamp it first, then the VAFC ups it the ECU is seeing boost, retards timing and stuffs everything up. If you have the VAFC first then it modifies the signal, but the SS unit clamps is, so effectively it does nothing.
I'm not a big believer in the VAFC for FI. I believe the only way to use it in this situation is to up the fuel pressure (with the Comptech that's a matter of turning the screw. With the Vortech you'd have to replace the FPR with an adjustable one) so it is always rich, then use the V-AFC to pull fuel. As you'll be sending a comparatively low MAP signal to the ECU it will probably advance timing quite a bit which could cause more problems.
As I say, I don't think the VAFC is good for FI as it can't really add fuel without complications. There's only one guy I know who swears by the V-AFC with his Vortech, but he's gone real quiet now since he blew his engine.

If you want better control, consider the E-manage. It can actually drive the injectors so it will add more fuel without the secondary effects. Kane has one for sale cheap in the For Sale forum.
BTW, by way of credentials, I am running a Comptech SC with 8lbs pulley, E-manage, 440cc injectors and Sard FPR. 214rwkw on a Dynapack.
Thanks for all the help...I am seriosly concidering the E-manage now...but one thing always troubles me..making me not want to get it yet...The problem started right before I put on the S/C so it could be the order things are put in but I wouldn't know for sure. I am thinking O2 sensors right now but my gut tells me it won't fix the problem....Can I sort everything out with the E-manage? I don't know if this will help but I just got a A/F ratio gauge installed and it holds steady at safe levels on rich while cruising and then all of the sudden drops way lean and thats when my car jerks and sudders for a second then goes back to rich. I feel like pulling everything out of my car and starting over AHHH..man this sucks.
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Check your wiring. I had that problem before, turned out it was just on wire not on properly.
I remember a while ago greddy was checking the wiring of many peoples cars at some show or event and only I think 2 out of many many cars were wired up well.
I remember a while ago greddy was checking the wiring of many peoples cars at some show or event and only I think 2 out of many many cars were wired up well.
You know that might be what it is...now that i think about it, I was messing down there a day before I started having some troubles, checking lines and such. I'll call someone up today and hopefully they know what they are doing. I don't think Honda will mess with it now, being that there are alot of aftermaket things installed.
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