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Sputtering, stalling, lean conditions
Read thoroughly please, I have checked a lot myself, I'm a mechanic but I dont have diagnostic tools. So my car started to kinda hesitate a couple weeks ago when I'd pull off from a dead stop. Then the next week it started misfiring when I would pull off from a dead stop then at low throttle inputs it would completely shut down injectors and would barely pull itself, my wideband reading ---- which is off the charts lean. I checked my VAFC harness for problems and found nothing, I even removed it and the car was still acting all crazy. I ended up unplugging the primary O2 and then the car ran fine, like normal actually, but it was idling at 1500-2000 rpms which is rediculously annoying with my stupid loud exhaust. I got an O2 from Billman and plugged it in and reset the ECU. The same problem comes back. It actually seems to have gotten worse, stalled a couple times when I tried to take off, just barely giving it throttle. My wideband is reading 15:1+ a/f ratios under full throttle which is piston melting a/f so I really need some advice. There is no CEL. Any suggestions? This is pissin me off, the dragon is next weekend!
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i would sure like to know as well...please keep us tuned in.
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Downloading manual from hondahookup as we speak.
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have you tried disconnecting the battery overnight?
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No, but I dont think thats necessary, unless there's something I don't know about. I had a code from where I disconnected my O2 so I could drive it home then disconnected it for like 20 mins and the code was gone.
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Do you have a cat or a test-pipe?
If you still have a cat, try unbolting it and taking the car for a spin. See how the car drives then. |
I have a full exhuast with test pipe arriving wednesday. However I found that if I floor it and release the pedal slowly I have a flat spot in the pedal, going to find a scanner and see if I can read the voltage outputs. would the TPS cause this kind of running condition? Very strange... still diagnosing, frustrating!
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What you guys think about the map sensnor?
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Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 10 2007, 11:51 PM
What you guys think about the map sensnor?
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I had this slugish before from a dead stop and trying to move again.
Might be very bad heat soak or just try a map whack. GL, keep us updated. |
I have the same problem. I have tried the MAP wack, new MAP sensor, new fuel pump, fuel filter, re-set valves, cleaned the air idle control valve, and seafoam in the brake booster line to clean the intake. Still sputtering/bucking. Gonna try and swap computers n see if that works. Stop and go traffic is a nightmare. Gotta find a fix for this. Experts please help!!!! lol :hello:
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I'd check the voltage on your TPS sensor. I believe the service manual says it should be at .4xx volts but mine and my buddies s2ks both run a voltage of .28 when you turn the car to the on position without starting it. I believe it's the middle wire of the three coming out of the back of the TPS that you back probe w/ the positive voltage sensor then ground the negative on the engine or where ever.
If you have a faulty TPS sensor, unfortunately you'll have to buy the whole throttle body assembly, they don't sell the TPS by itself. |
^^ **** that I have aftermarket TB
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Well I finally got the chance to scan my car, I'm pretty sure its the MAP sensor. It was reading 28 inches of vacuum with the key on engine off lol. and I just put my header and exhaust on, but cant enjoy it cuz my car runs like crap :(
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If its reading serious vaccum with the car off im sure thats it
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It'll be here 9am tomorrow YAY. I'll post up if it fixes it.
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My car started doing the same exact thing today driving from Arizona to NC for the Dragon meet.
Symptoms: - Low RPM bog in gear (below 2500 RPM). When this happens I see my AF go very lean. - Slight popping sound from the exhaust in no-load conditions between 3500 and 4500 RPM (when holding the pedal steady) - When I lift off the pedal while cruising (part throttle) I see my wideband go from the 14.5:1-15:1 range to 12:1 to 13:1 momentarily - Idle droop (have had some droop since installing the SC - but it is notable worst now) I stopped in at a dealership in Dallas and picked up a new MAP sensor - did not fix the problem. Checked for vacuum leaks and did not find any. Only thing I noted was when I monitored the Primary O2 sensor voltage it was a very jagged/choppy sine wave (yes - I am carrying tools and a scan tool with me on the trip). If I remember correctly it was a much cleaner smooth sine wave last time I checked it. I have confirmed that it is not related to my SC or fuel management - as I removed the belt, disconnected the engine management and tied open the bypass (essentially ran it NA). I am going to pull the plugs as soon as the car cools down and leave the battery disconnected over night. Interesting that my car is also a MY02. If anyone can confirm that the voltage from the Primary O2 is supposed to be a smoother looking sine wave please let me know. If anyone has had this problem and solved it please advise. I am currently in Jackson, MS and need to drive the rest of the way to the dragon tomorrow. I could probably stop by a Honda dealership on the way for a quick O2 sensor install if it is confirmed that it is the problem. You can also reach me on my cell - 6 0 2 6 2 5 1 3 4 4 Appreciate any help anyone can provide |
Also - I have no CEL
May just pull the plug on the O2 sensor and let it run in open loop. |
Pulled the plugs and all looks good - if anything it appears to be running slightly richer than usual.
S|2ocK - how many miles are on your car? I just rolled over 50K |
Another option I am looking at is to take the analog output from the AEM wideband and feed it to the ECU.
Can anyone confirm that the Nernst output option (P4) is the correct setting? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...67cb52400d.jpg |
Any updates on this?
I drove to a Honda dealership from the Dragon meet on Saturday to try and sort out my problems. My fuel trim goes very rich at idle and low RPM, but the O2 sensor is apparently functioning properly (dealer diag/OBD machine noted that the fuel trim did not match what the O2 sensor was providing as an input). They were nice enough to pull the injectors and coils from a used car for me to try out - neither fixed the problem. So summary: Not the MAP Not the O2 Not the coils Not the sparkplugs Not the injectors Both the tech at the Honda dealership in Alcoa, TN and my hometown (Phoenix) tech think it may be the PCM/ECU. For now I am running with the O2 sensor disconnected and the PCM running open loop - runs better but the car does not want to idle. |
^Did you disconnect the upstream O2 sensor?
Im having the same problem here... Im gonna try and swap computers with a buddy n see if that helps.... |
Originally Posted by millertown15,Apr 16 2007, 08:12 AM
^Did you disconnect the upstream O2 sensor?
Im having the same problem here... Im gonna try and swap computers with a buddy n see if that helps.... Another thing I noticed is that some other car functions have changed. When I used to hit the cruise button it would pretty much lockin right at the traveling speed - now it jumps 1-2 MPH and locks there. When I hit resume it used to speed right up to the cruise set-point (for example it would take a couple seconds to get from 70 to 80), now it slowly creeps up to the set-point over a 6-10 seconds to get from 70 to 80 once you hit the resume button (and sometimes it stops 1-2 MPH short). I measured the voltages going to the PCM and it is dead nuts with what is showing on the battery (both with and without the engine running: 12.99 and 14.2). I also measured the idle droop/drop voltage and just when it is about to stall the voltage is still around 13.5 VDC - negating the "voltage is dropping to low" concept. |
I know that someone checked their fuel pump but maybe the same symptoms could be different problems on these different cars. I would check the fuel pump, or if there is a fuel filter on these cars.
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Originally Posted by solardodgesrt4,Apr 16 2007, 10:39 AM
I know that someone checked their fuel pump but maybe the same symptoms could be different problems on these different cars. I would check the fuel pump, or if there is a fuel filter on these cars.
The filter is actually a sock in the tank around the pump (pickup?) |
^ My car does this as well with the cruise... haha just thought it was me. Im gonna unplug the sensors and drive it for a day and see what that gets me. I have tried:
Re-Setting Valves New Fuel Pump and Filter ( Filter is on the end of the pump ) Map Wack New Map Sensor New Plugs Cleaned Air Idle Control Valve Seafoam Intake... Hopefully we can finally get to the bottom of this problem..... Looks like we are finally heading in the right direction. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 16 2007, 10:30 AM
I disconnected the primary (one in the header) - the secondary (in the catconv is purely emmisions related and should not effect performance - just shows that the cat is working).
Hey man you said you were in Jackson Mississippi, you live there or just passing through? I live close to there just wondering :thumbup: |
WLaurant, my car is CTSC'd and I have the exact same symptoms. It seems the MAP Whack works temporarily but not for very long. I suspect the only real solution is going to be to install and tune my AEM EMS. Unfortunately, you can kiss emissions goodbye with that one. I am going to see if I can dig someone up in my area who is supercharged and running the EMS.
Best, Jorge |
I was in Jackson this morning, now I am in Las Cruces, New Mexico. I was over on the right coast for the wake the dragon meet - will be back in Phoenix tomorrow afternoon.
The car ran better without the O2 sensor connected, but it would not idle. Jorge, does yours have all the same issues? I think it is the ECU/PCM. I will be going K-Pro once it is available - but I need to make sure it is the ECU and not something else first. Everyone having this problem should post the serial number of their ECU - I am betting something will be apparent. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 17 2007, 12:44 AM
I was in Jackson this morning, now I am in Las Cruces, New Mexico. I was over on the right coast for the wake the dragon meet - will be back in Phoenix tomorrow afternoon.
The car ran better without the O2 sensor connected, but it would not idle. Jorge, does yours have all the same issues? I think it is the ECU/PCM. I will be going K-Pro once it is available - but I need to make sure it is the ECU and not something else first. Everyone having this problem should post the serial number of their ECU - I am betting something will be apparent. |
I am thinking there are many more of these issues than the 4 or 5 posted here - just not being reported.
I am going to be pressing for my dealership to warranty the ECU as it effects emissions and should fall under that warranty. The more info we can gather here the more luck we may have. I am almost thinking that the ECU processor has slowed down and it is not making corrections to things fast enough. |
Also - since the sight is going down on the 19th, we should swap email addy's or phone numbers to keep in touch regarding this issue.
PM me your info and I will reply in kind. |
OK - so installed a known good ECM/ECU and the problem is still there. Also replaced the primary O2 sensor with a new OEM replacement just in case - problem is still there.
So as of now I can eliminate: Not the MAP (installed new) Not the O2 (installed new) Not the coils (replaced with coils from a normal running 05) Not the sparkplugs (tried 3 different sets - including new OEM) Not the injectors (replaced all 4 injectors with injectors from a normal running 05) Not the ECM/ECU (installed a known good one from an 01) This is driving me crazy. I removed the SC and returned the car back to NA stock just to completely ensure it was not my setup or tune. All OBD readings check out with the exception of the fuel trims are showing richer than the Helm's manual and the Honda diagnostic tool show it should be. There has to be someone that has solved this problem. There has to be some other sensor, etc.. causing the issue. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 12 2007, 06:36 PM
Pulled the plugs and all looks good - if anything it appears to be running slightly richer than usual.
S|2ocK - how many miles are on your car? I just rolled over 50K |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 16 2007, 11:30 AM
I disconnected the primary (one in the header) - the secondary (in the catconv is purely emmisions related and should not effect performance - just shows that the cat is working).
Another thing I noticed is that some other car functions have changed. When I used to hit the cruise button it would pretty much lockin right at the traveling speed - now it jumps 1-2 MPH and locks there. When I hit resume it used to speed right up to the cruise set-point (for example it would take a couple seconds to get from 70 to 80), now it slowly creeps up to the set-point over a 6-10 seconds to get from 70 to 80 once you hit the resume button (and sometimes it stops 1-2 MPH short). I measured the voltages going to the PCM and it is dead nuts with what is showing on the battery (both with and without the engine running: 12.99 and 14.2). I also measured the idle droop/drop voltage and just when it is about to stall the voltage is still around 13.5 VDC - negating the "voltage is dropping to low" concept. example, i'll be cruising at 65mph, activate cruise control, and right when i press the set cruise button the car jumps to 67mph and holds that speed. I have had a rough idle since i've had it back from the shop too. It sounds pretty much like the same problem, but my engine doesn't die as often, sometimes though when i just engage the clutch. I called that shop back after experiencing these issues and they said bring it back it could be this that or the other thing, but they told me i would have to pay to get it checked out further. That shop did some other shady stuff so i've been trying to trouble shoot the problem ever since. here's what i've done so far, but the problem remains. * replaced map sensor * Compared my TPS voltage with another s2k (they're the same) * tried plenty of fuel injector cleaners additives * I have run an 8 gauge grounding cable from chassis to neg. battery connection thinking they may had not reconnected a ground when the engine was pulled. I tried to connect a second 8 gauge wire to the bolt that secures the alternator, but that resulted in the engine making knocking sounds, so i disconnected it. My next step was to have the injectors professionallly cleaned, but it doesn't sound that that may be the cause. :confused: does anyone have a helms manual? i think there's an idle troubleshooting guide in there. |
what if it was something as simple as a dirty/clogged throttle body gasket, giving the map sensor the wrong readings?
I'm going to try this next, it's cheap and has potential. here's where i think air may be getting clogged (this is a BDL throttle body, but our stock TB has the same design for the map sensor air flow) http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f331/db17k/BDLTB.jpg |
I have been through the Helm's guide top to bottom. Monitored my timing, TPS, temps, MAP, etc.. for many hours today and still no solution.
I reseated all connectors and used di-electric silicaon grease on all of them. The only thing I have not done so far is replace my IAC and harness. IAC is around $100 and an easy install, but the harness looks to be a total PITA. Does not matter if the car is bone stock or SC'd - same problems exist, although they seem to be more prevelant/amplified with the SC hooked up and running. In NA form you can almost deal with it, but with the SC it really is problematic. A local tuner thinks that an AEM-EMS would be able to adapt to the SC changes better than the OEM ECM/ECU. The problem is that the car ran awsome for about 2 months before this started. |
I already changed the gasket and replaced the MAP - no notable change.
I am certain that it will be something really easy and stupid when this all shakes out. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 22 2007, 07:13 PM
I already changed the gasket and replaced the MAP - no notable change.
I am certain that it will be something really easy and stupid when this all shakes out. What about your secondary air pump? I've heard it has no effect on the idle, but perhaps somehow. Mine is sitting in my garage right now because it burned through the housing therefore producing little to no pressure. I didn't initially get a CEL for this problem, because the pump still functions and spins around it didn't produce a faulty air pump CEL. i finally started getting the p0411 for improper secondary air control flow detected. |
I am waiting for a CEL to eventually pop so I know what the problem really is. Will probably be "P00000 - Press trip button to reset/continue" and the problem will be gone (or some silly crap like that).
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Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 22 2007, 02:42 PM
sorry for the late reply but I have about 62k miles, I put the new map in and the car ran like it should again, problem solved mostly anyways, it still will go lean sometimes, like the map is jittery or something. I'll post back if the problem returns fully.
this thread diagnoses your 2,000 rpm idle issue as a faulty IAC Valve, if your problem comes back, may want to check this out. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...=315015&st=100 this one explains how to clean your IAC https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry10226066 |
My car has a slight bucking/missing during cruising on occasion. Interested to see what you guys find
SimpleMan |
Ok...Here's a strange post for you...
I had planned on going on a long drive Sunday with some buddies. In preperation, I added a bottle of Lucas Octane Booster in addition to some Shell 93 octane. I ran my car as hard as I ever have on the street. For whatever reason, my car is no longer having partial throttle hesitation. I can't explain it. Strange huh? |
Originally Posted by CourageOO7,Apr 23 2007, 09:18 AM
Ok...Here's a strange post for you...
I had planned on going on a long drive Sunday with some buddies. In preperation, I added a bottle of Lucas Octane Booster in addition to some Shell 93 octane. I ran my car as hard as I ever have on the street. For whatever reason, my car is no longer having partial throttle hesitation. I can't explain it. Strange huh? Only thing I could think is that you blew some carbon out of the combustion chamber. Obviously it does not take much of a problem to cause the car to get upset. I guess the knock sensor could have gotten overly sensitive and the higer octane smooted it out. At this point I would piss on a sparkplug if I thought it would help. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 12 2007, 05:29 PM
My car started doing the same exact thing today driving from Arizona to NC for the Dragon meet.
Symptoms: - Low RPM bog in gear (below 2500 RPM). When this happens I see my AF go very lean. - Slight popping sound from the exhaust in no-load conditions between 3500 and 4500 RPM (when holding the pedal steady) - When I lift off the pedal while cruising (part throttle) I see my wideband go from the 14.5:1-15:1 range to 12:1 to 13:1 momentarily - Idle droop (have had some droop since installing the SC - but it is notable worst now) I stopped in at a dealership in Dallas and picked up a new MAP sensor - did not fix the problem. Checked for vacuum leaks and did not find any. Only thing I noted was when I monitored the Primary O2 sensor voltage it was a very jagged/choppy sine wave (yes - I am carrying tools and a scan tool with me on the trip). If I remember correctly it was a much cleaner smooth sine wave last time I checked it. I have confirmed that it is not related to my SC or fuel management - as I removed the belt, disconnected the engine management and tied open the bypass (essentially ran it NA). I am going to pull the plugs as soon as the car cools down and leave the battery disconnected over night. Interesting that my car is also a MY02. If anyone can confirm that the voltage from the Primary O2 is supposed to be a smoother looking sine wave please let me know. If anyone has had this problem and solved it please advise. I am currently in Jackson, MS and need to drive the rest of the way to the dragon tomorrow. I could probably stop by a Honda dealership on the way for a quick O2 sensor install if it is confirmed that it is the problem. You can also reach me on my cell - 6 0 2 6 2 5 1 3 4 4 Appreciate any help anyone can provide These are just my diagnoses: -It seems to misfire at idle(I have open exhaust though) but my tuner said it could be a lean pop by just the sound. -My car feels like it hesitate UNTIL I hit a certain throttle% and then it jolts and takes off with the power it SHOULD have through the whole powerband. It does this at ANY speed or gear, strictly throttle or map related IMO. -At cruising/part throttle conditions it will pop and sputter all day long. -Under slow decel, it seems to misfire making a shaky/weird "mis" pop on decel, doesnt show up if I decel from a higher RPM. -I cannont drive slow, or the car starts to miss and shake violently until I release clutch/or accelerate. These are just the things that I have been observing, plus the things that you guys have been mentioning. Hope this helps narrow it down possibly. And the car will run fine if I take off with decent speed. |
I am 100% certain that it is not MAP, and about 90% certain it is not TPS. My TPS shows a smooth change (both the output voltage and what is displayed by the OBD scantool) through the entire range. MAP sensor was wacked, swapped and replaced with a new one.
If I disconnect the O2 sensor (also brand new) the car runs very good in open-loop - just very rich and it will not idle very well. I could see the MAP sensor effecting idle, but do not see how the TPS would cause the idle to be rough if the reading is steady-state. |
Well, my I have Chrome Pro in my car with a basemap. This same map has ran well for other motors, so its not that. My tuner has basicaly disabled my knock sensor and both 02s and it still has the same conditions... so i am really stumped on it.
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I'm going to clean my IAC when i get a chance.
also i just compared my cruise control throttle cable with my friend's s2k and it looks like the nuts on my cable are secured about one rotation closer to the cruise control box than his nuts. I'm going to clean the IAC and if that doesn't solve the issue i'll adjust the cruise control throttle cable. |
Well, I have cleaned my IAC and my sputtering remains. Gonna try and swap a new one from a buddies car that I know functions correctly. I'll see what that gets me. :thumbup:
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^^ Theres a simple IAC check you can perform, Unplug it with the engine on and running, the car should rev and stay there(need to check my manual on this part), another check is to take off your intake and plug the two small holes inside the throttle body, if the car dies the IAC is bad. i think your wasting your time cleaning it, worth a shot I guess.
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Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 23 2007, 11:19 AM
I am 100% certain that it is not MAP, and about 90% certain it is not TPS. My TPS shows a smooth change (both the output voltage and what is displayed by the OBD scantool) through the entire range. MAP sensor was wacked, swapped and replaced with a new one.
If I disconnect the O2 sensor (also brand new) the car runs very good in open-loop - just very rich and it will not idle very well. I could see the MAP sensor effecting idle, but do not see how the TPS would cause the idle to be rough if the reading is steady-state. |
When I unplug my AIC the car throttles up and down rapidly.
I tried the plug the two hole thing and it died - but I am not sure why that would indicate the IAC is bad. |
Load calculations are based on the MAP readings. Mine are normal per the Helm's guide.
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cleaned the IAC, took all of 15 mins.
yeah it didn't fix the idle, but acceleration seems a little improved! after 52k miles w/ a CAI cleaning it didn't hurt :) |
boy does this sound familiar. my car was doing similar all summer, had to do map whacks usually every couple days. acted fine when the weather was cold, but when it started to get warm again I'm getting the stuttering etc again, though not as bad yet. I've always had the burbling/popping at off throttle, and the idle is normally really rough (swings between vibrating the whole car and occasionally so smooth I can barely tell its running). I'm pretty sure its running real rich too, just put new exhaust on this week and its already got black on it, though it looks like its spitting carbon instead of a smooth coating.
gonna keep my eye on this thread. my00 86k |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 23 2007, 10:59 PM
Load calculations are based on the MAP readings. Mine are normal per the Helm's guide.
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Originally Posted by icemans2k02,Apr 24 2007, 05:59 AM
not sure about the comptech unit but the vortech had a timing box and a map clamp. if you are supercharged your map readings will be different. I did have the same issue as you guys and spent a full week in the shop. all I had to do was put new plugs in and change the gap to a not so agressive one .34 what are your gaps now?
My plugs are at 0.035 |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 24 2007, 09:00 AM
I put the car back to stock and it still did the same thing - so it is not the map clamp.
My plugs are at 0.035 |
Originally Posted by icemans2k02,Apr 24 2007, 08:12 AM
from your previous posts you said that your car was running the same as a stock S. i was just making sure you knew that it would be totally different. try gapping to a larger size .044 and are they new plugs? mine fouled out after 2 months of use on my car
I have since put the SC back in service and re-installed the Iridium NGK plugs gapped at 0.035" |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 23 2007, 08:58 PM
When I unplug my AIC the car throttles up and down rapidly.
I tried the plug the two hole thing and it died - but I am not sure why that would indicate the IAC is bad. |
It was an electrical load sensor, my bad.
Apply vacuum to the EVAP canister purge valve from the intake manifold side. If it holds a vacuum check valve clearances, if clearances are good replace injectors. If it does not hold a vacuum replace EVAP canister purge valve. |
Straight from the manual pg. 318: Block both upper and lower ports in the throttle body with your fingers while engine is running. Does your engine stall? Yes- replace IAC valve. No-Check for vacuum leaks, test the throttle body section 11-122
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awesome good find. this was frustrating for me so i know it must be for you guys
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Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 24 2007, 11:44 AM
It was an electrical load sensor, my bad.
Apply vacuum to the EVAP canister purge valve from the intake manifold side. If it holds a vacuum check valve clearances, if clearances are good replace injectors. If it does not hold a vacuum replace EVAP canister purge valve. Also wondering about this EVAP topic - wondering how you got there? |
I mentioned at the top of the page that I thought that the map sensor was tied to another load sensor but what I saw was just and electrical load sensor.
EVAP check is for rich condition DTC P0172( I think ) which my car pulled just before I replaced my MAP my MIL actually came on before I replaced the map so I was quick to check it to see what it was. I might check it to see whats up. |
Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 24 2007, 07:58 PM
I mentioned at the top of the page that I thought that the map sensor was tied to another load sensor but what I saw was just and electrical load sensor.
EVAP check is for rich condition DTC P0172( I think ) which my car pulled just before I replaced my MAP my MIL actually came on before I replaced the map so I was quick to check it to see what it was. I might check it to see whats up. |
Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 24 2007, 11:52 AM
Straight from the manual pg. 318: Block both upper and lower ports in the throttle body with your fingers while engine is running. Does your engine stall? Yes- replace IAC valve. No-Check for vacuum leaks, test the throttle body section 11-122
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Well I plugged the holes inside the throttle body and my car died. Gonna swap it out this weekend and see what that gets me. Thanks again for the find. :thumbup:
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Originally Posted by millertown15,Apr 25 2007, 11:28 AM
Well I plugged the holes inside the throttle body and my car died. Gonna swap it out this weekend and see what that gets me. Thanks again for the find. :thumbup:
I am replacing my IAC anyways since I have resigned myself to throwing money at the problem due to the information vacuum regarding this issue. I will be checking my valve clearances sometime in the coming week, replacing the IAC, and if that does not work I will be bringing to a Haitian Voodoo Doctor for treatment. |
^William, I just had a buddy of mine try this on his s2k. He said that when he plugged the holes in the TB his car did not die. Im not sure either but its gotta lead to something. Hope this helps.
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Thanks - I have one on order from Majestic.
And if the VooDoo Doctor does not work we have a 'ol time tent revival coming through in a couple weeks - they should have a healer in the group I would bet. |
Originally Posted by WLAURENT,Apr 25 2007, 03:37 PM
Thanks - I have one on order from Majestic.
And if the VooDoo Doctor does not work we have a 'ol time tent revival coming through in a couple weeks - they should have a healer in the group I would bet. |
Those two small holes in the Throttle body lead to a passage inside the intake manifold, its a completely seperate part of the manifold. This passage supplies enough air to modulate the idle via the IAC valve on the side of the manifold, when you take the IAC valve off and look at the manifold this is the open passage I'm talking about, mine had to be heavily welded when I bored out my manifold for the new TB. A couple weeks ago I performed the hole plugging procedure described in the manifold, but came to find I had a vacuum leak inside my throttle body via one of the throttle plate screws backing out of the rotor for the butterfly. I'm gonna try the test again and cross my fingers its just my IAC. Good luck fellas. E
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^ Thanks for explaining. lol gotta get me a manual. :D
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Originally Posted by S|2ocK,Apr 25 2007, 06:56 PM
Those two small holes in the Throttle body lead to a passage inside the intake manifold, its a completely seperate part of the manifold. This passage supplies enough air to modulate the idle via the IAC valve on the side of the manifold, when you take the IAC valve off and look at the manifold this is the open passage I'm talking about, mine had to be heavily welded when I bored out my manifold for the new TB. A couple weeks ago I performed the hole plugging procedure described in the manifold, but came to find I had a vacuum leak inside my throttle body via one of the throttle plate screws backing out of the rotor for the butterfly. I'm gonna try the test again and cross my fingers its just my IAC. Good luck fellas. E
I think some air may also come from the EVAP system, but I have not been able to confirm this. So by closing these 2 holes you are removing the air supply going to the IAC - so regardless if it is working or stuck open, the engine will die. Now I am thinking my IAC may be sticking open at low throttle input allowing crank case gases and EVAP gases to enter the intake stream mucking up the fuel mixture and resulting fuel trim. |
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