Sputtering, stalling, lean conditions
Replaced my IAC yesterday and it corrected most of the idle droop issues. My cruise control surge problems have pretty much gone away, but I still have the other isses (going rich at idle, misfire sounding popping when cruising not under load, going lean at throttle tip in, etc..).
Will be checking valve clearance on Sunday and I did get a temporary DTC (no engine light) for Air Pump - P01410. I have not been able to recreate it, but most people that see this end up getting a full blown failure at some point.
Will be checking valve clearance on Sunday and I did get a temporary DTC (no engine light) for Air Pump - P01410. I have not been able to recreate it, but most people that see this end up getting a full blown failure at some point.
Checked my valve clearances today and they were all on the tight side. Exhaust was a tight 0.009 (should be 0.010 to 0.011) and the Intake side was all at a very tight 0.007 to 0.008 (should be 0.008 to 0.010). I set the exhaust side to 0.010 and the intake side to 0.009.
Seems to be running a little better now. I was not able to replicate the rich/lean bog at low RPM - but it will still buck a little once it is warmed up (I have to try to make it do it though).
Seems to be running a little better now. I was not able to replicate the rich/lean bog at low RPM - but it will still buck a little once it is warmed up (I have to try to make it do it though).
Originally Posted by millertown15,May 1 2007, 09:50 AM
Hey man, its been a couple of days since you replaced the IAC just wondering how your car is running? 

Just another angle on this problem.......
if it's hot outside when your idleing or going slow - it's possible your IAT is heat soaking from your engine and maybe 170+ degrees F. If this is the case, you get idle problems and timing is changed,dropped HP,etc.
If it's not hot outside, maybe this isn't your issue.
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maybe to test -- get some (intake air temp) IAT OBD2 reading while it's happening. see what degrees the IAT sensor is when it's happening. (also compare difference between water temp and IAT as in our car they get too close unfortantely).
and if you don't have obd2, maybe do this.. -- get car hot by idleing on hot day. reproduce the problem on idle with hood closed.
Once you reproduce - open hood, pour a cold bottle of water on the IAT (the top of the manifold where the sensor is). if you do have obd2, temp should drop 20-50degrees. See if the idle probelmgoes away.
if it does, go away, then I think you have a HEAT soak issue. the solution for that varies.
P.S. I'm going to the SCCA National Tour in Houston this weekend and hope to win Astock like I did last year in Cstock. When i return, I'll be reporting some very interesting information on "how to avoid HEAT soak for autox" in the autox section.
if it's hot outside when your idleing or going slow - it's possible your IAT is heat soaking from your engine and maybe 170+ degrees F. If this is the case, you get idle problems and timing is changed,dropped HP,etc.
If it's not hot outside, maybe this isn't your issue.
======
maybe to test -- get some (intake air temp) IAT OBD2 reading while it's happening. see what degrees the IAT sensor is when it's happening. (also compare difference between water temp and IAT as in our car they get too close unfortantely).
and if you don't have obd2, maybe do this.. -- get car hot by idleing on hot day. reproduce the problem on idle with hood closed.
Once you reproduce - open hood, pour a cold bottle of water on the IAT (the top of the manifold where the sensor is). if you do have obd2, temp should drop 20-50degrees. See if the idle probelmgoes away.
if it does, go away, then I think you have a HEAT soak issue. the solution for that varies.
P.S. I'm going to the SCCA National Tour in Houston this weekend and hope to win Astock like I did last year in Cstock. When i return, I'll be reporting some very interesting information on "how to avoid HEAT soak for autox" in the autox section.



