Starter Issues?
So on Saturday after pushing START nothing happened. I could hear the fuel pump prime after turning the ignition on as usual then I heard what I think is the starter click/make a buzzing sound as if it was trying to turn but couldn't. I checked all the relevant fuses as per the owner's manual and found they were all intact. Battery is new and alternator checked out at 14.7 volts during idle. I did that test when I replaced my negative terminal with a new one. I kick started her and she fired up easily. After that when I push START she fires up as normal. What could have happened? Do I need to service/replace the starter? I put my hand up to the starter as best I could to try and feel if any wires were loose but I couldn't feel anything nor could I see clearly as its so tight down there without removing the alternator.
It used to grind now and then but it has not grinded since it started again yesterday.
It used to grind now and then but it has not grinded since it started again yesterday.
One thing that can happen is a situation where flywheel happens to stop in the exact right spot, so that on next startup, starter gear fails to mesh with flywheel teeth.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
One thing that can happen is a situation where flywheel happens to stop in the exact right spot, so that on next startup, starter gear fails to mesh with flywheel teeth.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
I suppose turning the crank a few mm's by hand could also suffice? Pushing in a higher gear sounds like a better bet though.
One thing that can happen is a situation where flywheel happens to stop in the exact right spot, so that on next startup, starter gear fails to mesh with flywheel teeth.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
You would hear starter relay click, and maybe feel solenoid fling starter hear toward flywheel, but since gear never fully extends, starter motor never tries to turn.
Typically this would only happen with a worn gear on starter, or flywheel. Otherwise these gears usually mesh very reliably.
If this is what happened, then cure is simply rotating engine any amount. Which is what you did when you bump started it. On shutdown, flywheel now in a different spot, so next startup was ok.
If this is the issue, then all you'd need to do next time is put it in gear, push car any small amount, just so engine moves, then it should fire up ok with starter. No need to actually bump start it, just move it. Use a higher gear so its easier to push.
Of nothing else, trying push then try to start this will rule out this as the issue.
Thank you again
Can be either side.
Only way to check is remove starter and inspect. Removing starter on this car is not easy due to top bopt holding it in place. Have to go in from the front wothh long extensions and swivel joint. Under intake manfold, and super careful not to break to fragile and expensive knock sensor.
I find it easiest to swing alternator out of place, and go in where it normally resides, while spying through IM runners with flashlight.
Only way to check is remove starter and inspect. Removing starter on this car is not easy due to top bopt holding it in place. Have to go in from the front wothh long extensions and swivel joint. Under intake manfold, and super careful not to break to fragile and expensive knock sensor.
I find it easiest to swing alternator out of place, and go in where it normally resides, while spying through IM runners with flashlight.
I was surprised last week when I went to start and got nothing but the solenoid making noise and flickering lights. Battery was installed late 2014. Checked out new batteries and settled on a $75 Costco fitment 51. One Honda dealer wanted $145 plus $30 if they installed it. Another, larger dealer wanted $175 uninstalled! Costco here I come! Came home to install and I was surprised when the anode red plastic cap and clamp came right off in my hands! Battery was okay, just a bad electrical connection. I swapped it out anyway given the age of the battery and I can use the old (still okay) one for charging Li Po batteries.
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I was surprised last week when I went to start and got nothing but the solenoid making noise and flickering lights. Battery was installed late 2014. Checked out new batteries and settled on a $75 Costco fitment 51. One Honda dealer wanted $145 plus $30 if they installed it. Another, larger dealer wanted $175 uninstalled! Costco here I come! Came home to install and I was surprised when the anode red plastic cap and clamp came right off in my hands! Battery was okay, just a bad electrical connection. I swapped it out anyway given the age of the battery and I can use the old (still okay) one for charging Li Po batteries.

When it is the rainy season (and when I was flying all the time) I used a battery minder frequently to keep the batter up to snuff. I think that is why it lasted as long as it did. Most car batteries of mine get changed at 5-6 years. It is the price of doing business. At the first hint of a problem that is the first thing I do. My standby generator battery only lasts about 3 years. Much less use than a car and it has a built in charger of course. Go figure.
I always think about frying the alternator resistor if you jump start this car.
I always think about frying the alternator resistor if you jump start this car.
Hey Car Analogy,
Thanks for the reply and help on the next steps.
I'm assuming its cheaper and less labor intensive to start by replacing the starter than it is to replace the flywheel......
I will get the necessary tools and swap the starter. Is there any part in particular I should be inspecting on the starters while swapping?
Thanks for the reply and help on the next steps.
I'm assuming its cheaper and less labor intensive to start by replacing the starter than it is to replace the flywheel......
I will get the necessary tools and swap the starter. Is there any part in particular I should be inspecting on the starters while swapping?










