Okay I'm having a weird problem. I'm starting to run out of ideas.

1) AP1, pulling to the right. (inside of front left tire threaded, right one looked fine btw). Heavy steering to the left, really easy steering to the right. If I hold the wheel straight the car tracks straight but as soon as I let go it will start falling off to the right.
2) Changed tires to a spare set I have, same problem
3) Got realigned by a different shop this time, no problems with alignment, but problem with steering persists
4) Installed my KWv3 shocks. Realigned, same problem
5) Thinking that perhaps the bushings were deteriorating and that under load the control arms might be "walking" a bit, I swapped out the upper and lower passenger side arms for known-good ones, and realigned again. Problem persists.



I'm running out of ideas. Any suggestions/input appreciated.

 

Here is a thought...

Has the car sat without power for an extended period of time?

If so you may need to set the EPS neutral position. There is a proceedure in the helms manual on how to do this, involving turning the steering wheel to the left then to the right and then back to neutral.

-Dave

 

^So this would be something that we can simply do on our own, assuming we have the helms manual?

 

Found this. Will try it later and follow-up. Thanks Dave.


https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry9803999

I just realized that want the procedure for torque sensor neutral postion memorization. All the stuff I posted was for clearing EPS DTC's. Here it is for torque sensor neutral position EUDM:
Perform memorising the torque sensor neutral position whenever the gearbox is removed/installed and the torque sensor or EPS control unit is replaced.
Note that the torque sensor neutral position is not erased even though the DTC is erased.
1. Set the front wheels in the straight ahead driving position.
2. Connection the SCS short connector to the service check connector (2P) located left side of front console.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead driving position and hold the steering wheel in the position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). The EPS indicator light comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator light goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel.
The EPS indicator light comes on again 4 seconds later releasing the steering wheel.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator light comes on, turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left again and hold it in the position. The EPS indicator light goes off after 4 seconds.
7. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator light goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
The torque sensor neutral position cannot be written when the steering torque is detected during this period.
8. The EPS indicator light blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks 3 times 5 seconds after blinking twice. Then, the light goes off.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not written when the EPS indicator light stays ON: Repeat the procedure from the step 3.

 

Looks like its throwing 2 EPS codes.

DTC: 22 Excessive change of the vehicle speed sensor signal
----------A problem with average for vehicle speed and engine speed
DTC: 23 A problem with the circuit for engine speed signal


Cant figure out how to clear it to see if it comes back again. And it doesnt appear that I can successfully perform the neutral position reset until codes are cleared.

 

nexus

Got gears? Yellow Box?

I have done the reset before. The car drove like a tank. The steering wheel was just heavy. Dealer replaced the motor and took two weeks to do it. They would not do the reset for me. They said, no code, nothing to do. Mine did not pull at all.

 

no gears, no yellow box. i do have the kaaz 1.5 lsd. but not sure that would affect this or not.

 

Did the car ever have a wheel bearing replaced because it was going bad?
If so, it may have taken out the ABS sensor before it was replaced. As the bearing wears out the clearance between the sensor and the sensor wheel decreases. I've actually had the two make contact and damage each other before i finally replaced the bearing.

You should check the sensor wheel for signs of any wear/contact. And, check the signal wire from the sensor as well as all the connectors along the way.

 

Dave, that would throw a DTC for the ABS system would it not?

nexus, it sounds like the speed sensor to me. Since you don't have yellow box (No cut in the speed sensor wire) then maybe the sensor is bad??

 

cleared the EPS DTC finally. Then performed the neutral reset. Definite change but for the worse. Tried it again and it mellowed out a little but hardly what I would call "neutral"