Stripped rotor retaining screws
I'm so pissed off on this small little screw 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,953
Likes: 25
From: 17 ft below sea level.
First: you didnt use an impact screwdriver.. didn't you 
Are both screws stripped and still in => disk is still on the hub?
If so, try with a centerpunch to get some grip on the countersunk part and try to get it moving again.
Not before hitting it with a flat punch straight on the head to loosen it up.
If you want to drill them out with the disk on, make sure you get a good center punch hole in the middle.
As far as I remember is metric 6mm so you need a 4,5-4.8 mm drill and a M6 tap to clean up the tread.
If its M5 then you'll need 4,0-4,2 to drill.
If the disk is off and you have just 2 little stumps left, drilling out is the only option.
Use some copper paste on the new screws
Are both screws stripped and still in => disk is still on the hub?
If so, try with a centerpunch to get some grip on the countersunk part and try to get it moving again.
Not before hitting it with a flat punch straight on the head to loosen it up.
If you want to drill them out with the disk on, make sure you get a good center punch hole in the middle.
As far as I remember is metric 6mm so you need a 4,5-4.8 mm drill and a M6 tap to clean up the tread.
If its M5 then you'll need 4,0-4,2 to drill.
If the disk is off and you have just 2 little stumps left, drilling out is the only option.
Use some copper paste on the new screws
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,649
Likes: 0
From: Gurenderu
use about a 1/8-3/16" drill bit. what youll end up doing is drilling into the center of the countersunk screw and then youll basically sever off the head of the screw. then you can just pull the rotor off. once the rotor is off, use a vice grip and unscrew whats left. it shouldnt be TOO hard to unscrew since there is no more pressure to provide any friction other than corrosion, but that should be manageable.
some ppl recommend not even using the rotor screws. claiming its only on there to hold the rotor in place during manufacturing, and once the wheel is put on, the screw is useless. i dont agree. it should be replaced and reused if possible. i dont like the idea of the rotor shifting around the tolerance of the clearance holes for the threads and the holes. two countersunk screws define a position and keeps it there.
some ppl recommend not even using the rotor screws. claiming its only on there to hold the rotor in place during manufacturing, and once the wheel is put on, the screw is useless. i dont agree. it should be replaced and reused if possible. i dont like the idea of the rotor shifting around the tolerance of the clearance holes for the threads and the holes. two countersunk screws define a position and keeps it there.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 1
From: idbracing
I recommend using a dremel and slot an area where you can use a impact driver with flat head bit.
I find that flat head screws on the rotor are much easier to remove than the philips screws.
I find that flat head screws on the rotor are much easier to remove than the philips screws.
Trending Topics
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 1
From: idbracing
Originally Posted by tysonCRX,May 17 2006, 11:35 PM
use about a 1/8-3/16" drill bit. what youll end up doing is drilling into the center of the countersunk screw and then youll basically sever off the head of the screw. then you can just pull the rotor off. once the rotor is off, use a vice grip and unscrew whats left. it shouldnt be TOO hard to unscrew since there is no more pressure to provide any friction other than corrosion, but that should be manageable.
some ppl recommend not even using the rotor screws. claiming its only on there to hold the rotor in place during manufacturing, and once the wheel is put on, the screw is useless. i dont agree. it should be replaced and reused if possible. i dont like the idea of the rotor shifting around the tolerance of the clearance holes for the threads and the holes. two countersunk screws define a position and keeps it there.
some ppl recommend not even using the rotor screws. claiming its only on there to hold the rotor in place during manufacturing, and once the wheel is put on, the screw is useless. i dont agree. it should be replaced and reused if possible. i dont like the idea of the rotor shifting around the tolerance of the clearance holes for the threads and the holes. two countersunk screws define a position and keeps it there.
Tons of people run no rotor screws, especially race cars because it allows them to change rotors that much quicker. There really is no need to run them other than keeping your rotor on your car in the event that your wheel falls off.