Ok, my original question was pretty stupid, because if the bolt was 18mm and not 17mm, I don't think the 17mm socket would have fit on.

Anyways, does anyone have any suggestions for getting the oil drain bolt off? I tried using a socket wrench and a rubber hammer but that didn't do anything ... tried using all my strength to get it off and it still hasn't budged. I'm thinking whoever put it on last (bought the car used) probably over torqued it like crazy. I didn't think 33 ft-lbs would be so difficult to take off but this is proving to be super difficult.

 

Make sure you're using a 6 point socket. Also, the longer the lever, the more power you'll get at the socket. Make sure the socket is firmly on (You can even give it a couple of taps with a hammer... gently now!)

A fast sharp tug usually works best... If not, time to take it to a shop...

 

Guess you don't have an impact wrench?

You can always try putting a wrench onto the bolt and then hitting the wrench with a hammer.

 

Yeah I'm using a 6 point socket. Tried using a 12 (?) point one too but that didn't help at all ... I can't get it off, so I just made an appointment with Fairfax Honda so hopefully they can get the damn thing off.

Gonna make sure I tell the mechanic NOT to overtighten the damn bolt.

Hope that the threads for the oil pan aren't stripped either. If they are I'm gonna have to talk to the guy I bought the car from .. this is pretty damn annoying. Already probably gonna cost me an arm and a leg just to get the stupid bolt taken out and replaced.

 

No impact wrench

I tried the wrench and rubber hammer already (see my original post). Didn't seem to help at all.

The bolt itself is kindof stripped now so I don't think there's much I can do short of having someone drill it out.

 

Unfortunately I'm willing to bet that the last person to change the oil cross-threaded the bolt into the pan and that's why it's that hard to get off.

 

Yeah, over-torquing usually strips the pan, rather than making the bolt hard to get out. But if it was cross-threaded and then screwed in with an air wrench, it's toasted.

 

I do not use sockets on critical bolts - I prefer box wrenches to make a good clean bite into the bolt. You can make an extension lever by using a quality 17mm box wrench, with a length of steel pipe slipped over about 1/2 of the wrench's length. If that doesn't give you enough torque multiplication, then likely this thing is galled onto the aluminum - dissimilar metals can do this.

You can rent an electric-drive impact wrench, or buy one from Sears, or Harbor Freight. If you can get a 6-point to grab onto whatever is left of your bolt, the impacts will almost always "break" the bond, with hope that you do not strip the bolt.


Have you tried giving the bolt head a good whack? Have you tied a good penetratingf fluid like Wurth, PB Blaster etc?
Assuming the threads are OK on the pan, you can replace with a new bolt, or go with something like the Fumoto. For something you will be "wrenching" a lot, it is cheap insurance to replace the bolt regularly, keep the car out of the hands of gorillas, and consider a drain solution like the Fram or Fumoto. Good rule of thumb: if the socket or wrench starts to slip at all, get a new bolt, rather than "just one more time" it. It will avoid the headaches you are now experiencing.

Good luck. If you get down to the Richmond area, I have some excellent 6 point sokets, and Matco box wrenches, and an impact wrench. I'd be willing to give it a whack for ya.

 

It's a cast aluminum pan...it's probably cross threaded all the way in.

 

[quote name='Road Rage' date='Feb 4 2005, 06:10 PM'] I do not use sockets on critical bolts - I prefer box wrenches to make a good clean bite into the bolt. You can make an extension lever by using a quality 17mm box wrench, with a length of steel pipe slipped over about 1/2 of the wrench's length. If that doesn't give you enough torque multiplication, then likely this thing is galled onto the aluminum - dissimilar metals can do this.

You can rent an electric-drive impact wrench, or buy one from Sears, or Harbor Freight. If you can get a 6-point to grab onto whatever is left of your bolt, the impacts will almost always "break" the bond, with hope that you do not strip the bolt.


Have you tried giving the bolt head a good whack? Have you tied a good penetratingf fluid like Wurth, PB Blaster etc?
Assuming the threads are OK on the pan, you can replace with a new bolt, or go with something like the Fumoto. For something you will be "wrenching" a lot, it is cheap insurance to replace the bolt regularly, keep the car out of the hands of gorillas, and consider a drain solution like the Fram or Fumoto.