S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Temperature gauge going up and then down

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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 09:51 AM
  #11  
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Dude... "bang it goes down" is not descriptive. Here's an example of what would actually be useful.
Temp gauge shows 3 bars (normal) for 2 minutes.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 45 seconds.
Temp gauge goes to 5 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge goes to 4 bars for 1 second.
Temp gauge skips 3 bars and goes to 2 bars for 2 minutes.

Try something a little more like that.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 10:13 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by DVSwetwilly,Mar 9 2005, 10:58 AM
its in seconds
really quick seconds..
This tells me what I need to know. You should target the coolant temp sender, the wiring and last, the way the ECU interprets the signal. The ECU should be looked at when the others have been thoroughly investigated. If you are still under warranty, this should be covered.
Good luck.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 05:35 PM
  #13  
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The red flag to me here is the Hondata gasket. Don't get me wrong the mod is a good one. My opinion is that you may have some air trapped in the cooling system. This is leading to the sensor seeing some supeheated steam for a brief period which is leading to your readings. You need to bleed the system (which was disturbed when the gasket was installed). You need to remove the bleed cap from the heater bypass tube (behind the block and against the firewall--cap is just to the left of the clamp holding the tube)and loosen the air bleed bolt on the intake manifold(located on the right front of the manifold.

1) Fill radiator
2) Tighten manifold bleed bolt as soon as fluid streams out
3) Tighten bleed cap on heater tube when fluid comes out
4) With radiator cap off run car until radiator fans come on at least twice (fill radiator as needed to keep fluid at bottom of neck). PLACE THE CARS HEATER ON MAX HEAT.
5) Tighten bleed air screw on mainfold to 7.2 ft-lb
6) Put radiator cap back on and check for leaks at bypass tube cap, bleed bolt, and cap.
7) Thank Utah for fixing you problem

Utah

P.S. You may have done the gasket a while back but an air bubble has made it's way into an area that is effecting the sensor......
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 05:40 PM
  #14  
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Aren't you suppose to also lift up the car so the engine is angled when opening the bleed screw?
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 05:48 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by kane.s2k,Mar 9 2005, 06:40 PM
Aren't you suppose to also lift up the car so the engine is angled when opening the bleed screw?
Not according to my Helm Manual....

Utah
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 05:51 PM
  #16  
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hrmm...I dunno, just something I've always done. On B and D series motors it would never fully bleed out all the air unless I did this.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 05:55 PM
  #17  
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THANKS guys!!!! for the help there was a air pocket.. everything is okay now.. I love this fourm some much info so many people with nice "S" well guys/girls thanks for your help
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Utah S2K,Mar 9 2005, 07:35 PM
The red flag to me here is the Hondata gasket.
I didn't see where he mentioned anything about a Hondata gasket.
If you knew of this, then you had the advantage over the rest of us. I've just gotta learn to not respond anymore when details are left out.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 08:29 AM
  #19  
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[QUOTE=xviper,Mar 9 2005, 11:51 PM] I didn't see where he mentioned anything about a Hondata gasket.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 08:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by TubeDriver,Mar 10 2005, 10:29 AM
Viper, not only are you our tech guru, you should know (from memory) every mod on every single members cars.
I will strive to do better from now on.
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