I just replaced my front pads about a month ago and didn't resurface the rotors and my brakes feel good as new.

As said above, if there isn't any noticable grooves in the rotor and you don't notice any vibration or anything while braking, your rotors are fine.

I too am one of those who is against resurfacing, as i find it tends to make the rotors more prone to warping.

So to answer your question, yes, you will be totally fine to just slap some new pads on and call it a day

 

since it seems like the op's question was answered... I have one of my own.

I'm about to replace my brakes but I have slotted rotors, can (should) I resurface them?

 

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I've decided not to turn the existing rotors. At almost 7 years old, they're a big rusty mess on the unswept areas. If they come off the car, they're not going back on it. If replacing the pads alone gives me any problems, I'm going to buy some aftermarket rotors with an anti-corrosion coating on the unswept portions. I'm probably leaning 80% to just go ahead and buy new rotors now and change everything at once.

 

Nope, The grinding bit is going to deflect. I don't know a shop that will do those.

I think people read the paper slip that comes with disks or pads and freak. The manufacturer has no idea how stupid the person putting the brake together is, so they expressly state that new disks and pads should NOT be used together. And/Or that the disk must be turned first. If you don't want a lot of complaints about initial break-in feel, and sometimes noise, sure.

But I have run hundreds of new pads and disks with no problem, and with the exceptions I stated earlier, I NEVER turn disks. Disks need mass. Every time you really cut a disk you are losing that mass. This is why I only buy factory disks or Brembo aftermarket disks. The come true (no runout) and are pretty cheap. Centrix, Napa gold, and Ate are also good. Why spend $12-15 bucks to turn a disk, better spent on new ones AFAIK.

The other thing that gets ignored when grinding a disk is that as the piston fully gets extended I run into problems with bore wear and deformation.

Some higher quality pads do a material transfer and that is why they work so well. This will interfere with new pads. In this case, the thermal braking protocol is a page or two itself and has to be followed or they won't work well. This is not true in my experience with Honda pads. Some race pads (H Blues or Pagid Blue/black) will grind off any pad material on an old disk in 10 min of driving, so that is moot.

 

That's what I've always done if you're replacing stock with stock.

 

with INTJ

Even if it was possible, you would just be reducing the slot depth and rotor mass.