Tools needed to change front brakes?
Hi, I live in a very cold place with no garage.
I have to change my brakes soon, and I will be driving my car to my family's residence. They live a few hours away from me and they have a garage. I was wondering what tools I should bring with me to change the front brakes. I have never done the brakes on this car yet... I'm not sure what type of hardware holds the calipers on, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you and have a great day!
I have to change my brakes soon, and I will be driving my car to my family's residence. They live a few hours away from me and they have a garage. I was wondering what tools I should bring with me to change the front brakes. I have never done the brakes on this car yet... I'm not sure what type of hardware holds the calipers on, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you and have a great day!
Thank you for the suggestions. I'm going to try to find a place down there that will turn the rotors for me. I only put about 40k miles on the car in 2 years, but I drive a bit nutty
I'm glad that I can use metric wrenches though, rather than allen, torx, etc. I can't bring my whole tool box with me... Thanks again!
I'm glad that I can use metric wrenches though, rather than allen, torx, etc. I can't bring my whole tool box with me... Thanks again!
FYI you don't NEED to have the rotors turned, with time the new pad will replace any compounds on the rotor left over from the old pad. I'd just get a scotchbright pad or something to scruff up the surface and some brake cleaner.
yeah, you don't need to resurface the rotors unless you have vibration right now, or are going to race pads. and if you do have vibration i would just get new rotors at napa instead of turning them.
to remove the rotors you'll need an impact screwdriver or a drill and drill bit to remove the small philips screw holding the rotors to the hub. a small sledge and piece of wood also helps knock the rotors loose.
to remove the rotors you'll need an impact screwdriver or a drill and drill bit to remove the small philips screw holding the rotors to the hub. a small sledge and piece of wood also helps knock the rotors loose.
Do yourself a favor and WD-40 the rotor philips screw before you drive to your folks to let it penetrate. If you strip that screw (and it's easy to do, they're soft), you'll be in a world of hurt. Bring a drill and a few bits if that happens....
Replacement front rotors are ~$40 each (Centric), so I'm not sure it's the hassle to try and resurface them if you don't have a warm place to work.
Replacement front rotors are ~$40 each (Centric), so I'm not sure it's the hassle to try and resurface them if you don't have a warm place to work.
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Building off Stratocaster's reply, and in the spirit of giving a full list of tools needed for a basic pad change (not rotor surfacing/replacing, bleeding, etc):
- 12mm wrench (not socket, won't fit at the rear caliper)
- something to compress the pistons (C-Clamp works best, huge chanel locks, ect)
- 17mm open end wrench
- very large flat head screwdriver OR 3/8" socket wrench (to rotate rear piston to compress it)
- jack (car jack works fine), jack stand, wheel stops (2x4 works fine)
- lug wrench
- bungee cord or wire coat hanger (to hang caliper up with to avoid stressing the brake lines)
- automotive syringe OR turkey baster and plastic cup with lid (suck up excess brake fluid from master cylinder when compressing calipers, only if needed)
Hope this helps...
- 12mm wrench (not socket, won't fit at the rear caliper)
- something to compress the pistons (C-Clamp works best, huge chanel locks, ect)
- 17mm open end wrench
- very large flat head screwdriver OR 3/8" socket wrench (to rotate rear piston to compress it)
- jack (car jack works fine), jack stand, wheel stops (2x4 works fine)
- lug wrench
- bungee cord or wire coat hanger (to hang caliper up with to avoid stressing the brake lines)
- automotive syringe OR turkey baster and plastic cup with lid (suck up excess brake fluid from master cylinder when compressing calipers, only if needed)
Hope this helps...
If you are removing the rotors, either to have them turned or to replace them, I strongly recommend that you take jtree's advice: a hand-held impact driver and a bfh (big hammer - I find that a 40 oz. ballpeen is about right for me). You buy these tools once and use them for the rest of your life.
Another handy tip: have a couple of M8x1.25 cap screws available. There are two threaded holes in the rotor; you can use the bolts to force the rotor off the hub, if it's rusted/frozen.
I also agree with spets: if there is no vibration/pulsation in the brakes before I start, I only check to ensure the rotors are thick enough. I don't turn them.
Another handy tip: have a couple of M8x1.25 cap screws available. There are two threaded holes in the rotor; you can use the bolts to force the rotor off the hub, if it's rusted/frozen.
I also agree with spets: if there is no vibration/pulsation in the brakes before I start, I only check to ensure the rotors are thick enough. I don't turn them.





