Top probs
so i dropped the top and brain farted cause i was tired after work and when the light turned green just dropped the hand brake and took off. well the top was almost all the way down but not all the way. so i drove for a block like that and now when i lower it sometimes it will stall a little at that same point, right before its all the way down or just jam and stop there. i can raise it back up and try to drop it again and it works fine? do you all think something is bent?]
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Could be bent but its problay the elastic straps not pulling hard enough, they are a cheap fix if thats the problem.
Look at the bottom side of your top while its closed and check to see if there is slack in the elastic straps, if so replace them.
Look at the bottom side of your top while its closed and check to see if there is slack in the elastic straps, if so replace them.
Originally Posted by PGA95355,Sep 5 2007, 10:17 PM
ok my top has the same issue, the other day i was brain dead when i woke up, i drove, the top wasnt latched, and it lifted itself back a few inches, and now it doesnt close properly. the elastic straps are torn and sh*t at this point. Do i just go to honda for replacement straps or what kind of mod is this? Thanks.
I am sure the straps could be bought at Honda, they come on a Honda car.
I just did replace my straps because they were sagging, and wouldn't pull the bar all the way back. The bad straps lead to my top not folding all the way down, and being very noticible when I was trying to put the boot on over the top. However, the WORST result of these bad straps was that they also lead to the ever-so-common rips in the top that everyone is expereincing, due to the bar not being pulled back properly.
MY FIX: I went to the sewing department in Wal-Mart, and bought a pkg of black heavy duty elastic, that was the same width, and a small pkg of 5/32" aluminum rivets from the automotive dept.
I first drilled out the rivets on the 4 strap plates (front and back).
Next I measured the length of ealstic needed with the top half way down, and the bar pulled back.
Then I cut the new straps just a little shorter than my measurement, soas to create tension on the elastic once installed.
In my final steps, I positioned the strap plates over the ends of each of the new elastic straps and created holes in the elastic with a hot nail. Then I riveted the straps in place with a borrowed rivet gun from Autozone.
Total cost for repair - $2.39
Total time of repair - About an hour (only because the rear strap plate rivets are very difficult to get a drill on). Time to do the entire job, if I would have had a right-angle drill, would have been less than ten minutes.
MY FIX: I went to the sewing department in Wal-Mart, and bought a pkg of black heavy duty elastic, that was the same width, and a small pkg of 5/32" aluminum rivets from the automotive dept.
I first drilled out the rivets on the 4 strap plates (front and back).
Next I measured the length of ealstic needed with the top half way down, and the bar pulled back.
Then I cut the new straps just a little shorter than my measurement, soas to create tension on the elastic once installed.
In my final steps, I positioned the strap plates over the ends of each of the new elastic straps and created holes in the elastic with a hot nail. Then I riveted the straps in place with a borrowed rivet gun from Autozone.
Total cost for repair - $2.39
Total time of repair - About an hour (only because the rear strap plate rivets are very difficult to get a drill on). Time to do the entire job, if I would have had a right-angle drill, would have been less than ten minutes.
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