First off, the plugs get 18 lb/ft. If you do them at 15, they'll back out.

Select a torque wrench that will accomplish the task when it's measuring in the central 1/2 to 3/4 of its scale. You don't want to rely on what it says if the torque you need is near the ends of its scale - not very accurate.
Get one for smaller torques and one for larger torques if you're just starting out. Later, you can get an "inch/lb" one if that's something you'll use.
As for which type, depends on the kind of precision you need. A beam type is more than adequate for things like lugnuts or even sparkplugs. If you are taking an engine apart and putting it back together again, a clicker type is better, however, those should be calibrated periodically.

 

where can you take them to be calibrated?

 

About the clicker types: when stored wind down the spring to 0 to relief the spring.
We have calibrated ones at work and we store them that way, according to what the ppl that calibrate them told us. Not only that but it makes sense.

 

Good tip.

I prefer the clicker type versus the beam; it's very useful it tighter areas where you can't get a straight angle on the beam (and you can just be lazy and wait for the click). One thing to keep in mind, you'll probably want a couple of torque wrenches; I know my Craftsman states that it isn't incredibly accurate low in the torque range. I have a 3/8 and a 1/2 drive one; the 1/2 one only gets used for lugs as of late.

 

You would be surprised how consistent you can be with just a regular 3/8" ratchet. With my size (5'11" - 160lb) I can get 20 to 22 ft-lbs every time. I like to torque them tighter than 18ft-lbs for peace of mind.

People say that it is too tight (I can picture XV and Wisconsin on the "Add Reply" button right now ), but my friend uses 30ft-lbs on his 00 since after the spark plug recall, with no problem at all.

 

the only place i know of is griots garage, its $25 for the service. heres the link http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11901 product number 12345 if that link didnt work. i dont know how often this service this needed or even if it is NEEDED, but they seem to think so. if you buy a wrench from them the service is free however.

 

Clicking ones for sure. Nothing but good experience with husky brand ones.

 

You're right. But NOT to chastize you but to agree with you.

I torque mine routinely to 20 lb/ft using anti-seize. I've never had a problem with it. I've noticed on the various cars I've owned that have had aluminum heads that the torque ranges tremendously from one manufacturer to another. Can't explain it except that maybe they know something I don't.

In any case, it's more important to do it consistently for all 4 plugs. I have examined the plugs that were done by the dealers on 3 separate S2000s after that recall some years ago. The torques ranged from the old 13 all the way up to 41 lb/ft ON THE SAME CAR.

As a last note, I would be reluctant to advise the "feel" method of applying torque to someone who just might be beginning his wrenching career. You can do it and I can do it, but for someone who still relies upon others who tell him the wrong torque to use, "feel" is not quite an achieved state. Best to use the torque wrench. I can just see somebody twisting that sucker right into the combustion chamber and banging the top of the pistion.

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I went ahead and put the plugs at 20 ft. lbs. and called it a night.

 

My dentist used a torque wrench on my tooth (implant) a couple of weeks ago. Now that's a weird-ass feeling