TPS voltage when TB is closed
Ok so I did lots of searching, and apparently the TPS voltage is supposed to be .48 to .52V when the TB is closed. Mine was at .30V for years, but recently the TP sensor went bad (.80-1.1V), so I replaced it with an Omni-Power for $75 (instead of $500 for a whole TB!). I dialed the new sensor to .30V and it works fine.
So now I'm wondering if the AP2 is supposed to be .50V and maybe the AP1 is .30V?
Any ideas?
So now I'm wondering if the AP2 is supposed to be .50V and maybe the AP1 is .30V?
Any ideas?
Are you sure the omni TPS sensor works with our engines? Is the connector port clocked in the same position as the original?
TPS voltage should be ~0.44V at 0% and ~4.5V at 100%.
-Asura
TPS voltage should be ~0.44V at 0% and ~4.5V at 100%.
-Asura
Originally Posted by Asura,Feb 16 2008, 09:50 AM
Are you sure the omni TPS sensor works with our engines? Is the connector port clocked in the same position as the original?
TPS voltage should be ~0.44V at 0% and ~4.5V at 100%.
-Asura
TPS voltage should be ~0.44V at 0% and ~4.5V at 100%.
-Asura
Update: Yes, AP1 needs the TPS voltage to be at .48-.52V at idle.
After ~250 miles with the TPS voltage at .30V at idle, the car started to hiccup alittle at 2800 rpms. It idles fine and runs great otherwise, and never threw a code.
My guess is that the throttle position at 2800 rpms happened to put the TPS at .50V. Anyways I modified the OmniPort TPS sensor so that I can clock it around more to get .50V at idle, and the 2800rpm hiccup is now gone. Saved over $400 since I didn't have to buy a whole frickin throttle body.
After ~250 miles with the TPS voltage at .30V at idle, the car started to hiccup alittle at 2800 rpms. It idles fine and runs great otherwise, and never threw a code.
My guess is that the throttle position at 2800 rpms happened to put the TPS at .50V. Anyways I modified the OmniPort TPS sensor so that I can clock it around more to get .50V at idle, and the 2800rpm hiccup is now gone. Saved over $400 since I didn't have to buy a whole frickin throttle body.
I have an AP2 and in short, concluded the following:
fully closed: approximately 0.30 V
fully open: approximately 4.5 V
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=289750
fully closed: approximately 0.30 V
fully open: approximately 4.5 V
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=289750
Originally Posted by JawKnee,Feb 22 2008, 02:14 PM
I have an AP2 and in short, concluded the following:
fully closed: approximately 0.30 V
fully open: approximately 4.5 V
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=289750
fully closed: approximately 0.30 V
fully open: approximately 4.5 V
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=289750
So far I've run the TPS at .50, .45, and .40. They all work after doing the ECM Idle Learn, although the idle speed will be higher with increased V. I'm now going to set it back to .30V (how the car originally was)
By the way, do not use the Idle Learn procedure as defined in Helms (running the engine at 3Krpm while parked, until its warmed up), it can give you an EPS fail. Instead, warm up the engine, then reset the ECM, then do the idle learn.
Also, to get the Omni Port sensor down to .30V you have to elongate the adjustment slots, but hey, its Omni Port sensor =$75 + 10 minutes with a Dremel VS. $476 for the whole TB from hondaautomotiveparts.com .
Trending Topics
Ok, after more testing and alot of run time, the correct Throttle Position Sensor voltage (closed TB) is .30V . Anything higher, like .44 or .50V will give you a high idle.
If your TPS goes out, buy the OmniPower sensor for $75 instead of shelling out $476+ for a whole throttle body.
case closed
If your TPS goes out, buy the OmniPower sensor for $75 instead of shelling out $476+ for a whole throttle body.
case closed
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Mar 7 2008, 04:53 PM
All the S2k's (AP1's and non-DBW AP2's) I've checked recently have been .25-.30V closed throttle and 4.5V WOT.









