ttt.

OK, I ordered one case - I will retain a few quarts for me, and then answer your PM's after that on a FIFO basis.

After that, I think it is likely that Ricks will pick up offering the product. if not, I will retain any more PM's of interest and get them out when I will. So if you are in a big rush and missed out on the IPO, then get in line for satsifaction down the road apiece.

RR.

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Post script: 3/3/04

Also, do some self-help. Call LE at their toll free number and ask for the sales guy in your area of the country - contact that person, and they can either set you up themselves, or one would hope, refer you to a retailer who can sell you what you need. You will not find it at pep Boys, but many Industrial Lubricant distributors may carry LE607, and the engine oils of interest, LE 8130 (10w30 SH-rated) and LE 8530 (5w30 SL-rated).

I would first try 7500 miles as an oil change, have the oil analyzed, and then determine the best change interval for your area. As always, i recommend a filter change at about half your mileage interval, or 6 months, whchever comes first. The ecxtra makeup oil wille xtend the fill's longevity a bit.

 

Thanks a lot RR

 

i thought we were getting the diff oil, not motor oil.

i'm sticking with redline for motor oil.

 

OK, here's the update and the PM sale status:

The first case is all sold out. MY cost is $234.52, I will add 10% for my "profit" (which is token - I never intended to make money on this for the reasons already stated). I have ordered appropriate boxes and packing materials. Shippping and handling will cover UPS and the packing material costs. no profit. I will enclose the amount you owe me with your order - I am fronting everything, no PayPal, just send me the remittance in the format you prefer (check, MO, gold, sister, whatever).

Those who expressed an interest will be contacted if/when I get sufficient demand for a 2nd case of 24. Then, i will shut down the fledgling cottage industry, or turn it over to Reedz & Company.
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Today, I took the LE 607 down to -10degF; for comparison, I also took down a bottle of the Red Line Heavy Shockproof. At that temperature, both were quit thick, although both poured. The LE 607 had a tackier consistency and a real affinity for metal.

Whether this oil is appropriate for your needs is your call. It is a 90w, which is still Honda's recommendation, and it exceeds GL-5, so it meets that Honda spec as well. I recommend going easy on it in very cold climates for the first few minutes of use. Although it tenaciously grips metal and will protect superbly at low temps, when you are getting to its low-temp pour point, it will be highly viscous and resistant to flow, and your best bet is to bring it up to operating temperature by a gentle warmup (that is, ramping up your speed). One of the best things about LE 607 is that its EP/AW additives work at any temperature, unlike some others which do not become very effective until they reach 200 degF or so.

Today it was 50 deg or so, and I backed the car out (pushed it) since gear oil is nasty, and I wanted to do the swap in the driveway.

The OEM fluid is high quality, and looked fine - it had only 700 miles on it, but the usual break-in debris was on the magnet - a very fine powdery material, no metal chards. So that is good.

I recommend a simple flush of the contents of the diff - 90w oil will cling to the metal inside, and even if you let it drain for an hour, a fair amount of old lube and debris will remain in there. If you were replacing with more of the OEM fluid (which remainds a mystery) then you would just need to pump in the new fluid.

But since we are adding a new component with different chemistry, make an attempt to flush out the old stuff. This can be done by pumping in some mineral spirits or kerosene, or just shooting in some citrus-based (d-Limonene) brake cleaner (not the strong solvents). When the solvent/old lube/grit has drained out, replace the cleaned bolt (which is easy with the citrus brake cleaner as a blaster), torque it (I did it by feel), and get ready to add the LE 607. I used the old washers. BTW, my 45deg offset 24 (the infamous Facom) wrench was able to clear the drain plug area easily, and had a great "bite" on the bolt. I marked it with a Sharpie Pen (date, mileage, 90w)

I highly recommend warming the gear oil before you try to pump it in - it is thick - not soupy like the 75w90 synoils. If the weather is hot, leave it out in the sun for an hour or so before you start your work. If the weather is colder (like the 50deg day today), I just soaked the bottle in some hot water for 30 minutes. With either a hand pump or a syringe type pump, it will be hard to pump this unless you warm it adequately.

This stuff will not work with XViper's advice to use a Mobil1 1 type gear oil bottle and squeeze it in. I have a giant syringe type pump I got from Griot's (it is German and holds 1 quart, but has indexed clear plastic sides, so you can put in exactly .75 qt. and pump it in.


Actually, you never can be quite sure how much it will take, so what I like to do is load the pump with the full quart, with the car tail up on the rear jackstand mounting points. I pumped in about 4/5's of the quart, then put the fill bolt in finger tight, and lowered the car with the drain pan underneath the diff. Then, I remove the fill plug and let the excess dribble out, which took about 30 mins. in today's temps. That way, I am sure that I have neither over nor underfilled it.

I just snugged up the fill bolt, d-Limonened the pumpkin and the surrounding areas, and was done.

I picked up 5 rwhp (kidding!).

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Off-topic. I was surprised that the driveshaft has a safety loop in place. This is usually a drag requirement, but a racing car will also have it as a req for most track situations. I have never seen it on a production car before - the SVT Cobra even lacked one! Very impressive Honda.

While I was under there, I removed and anti-seized the 3 studs at the cat to exhaust mounting flange - in anticipation of the Mugen, if it ever arrives.

What struck me was how "little" everything is - little bolts, little driveshaft, etc. I am so used to muscle cars that need muscle to work on them, that this was a lot less strenuous to work on - I felt like I could have twisted off the exhaust nuts with my pinkie.

 

Thanks for the update. You can see I've begun my preliminary testing (other thread).

I assume the note on the spec sheet about the 607 possibly needing an additive for "LSD" units does not apply to ours because it's a torsen-type and not a clutch-type?

I figure I'll change mine when it's hot, which I now know is at least 140 degrees F. Should I still use something to flush out the diff?

And not a bad idea fixing up the CAT bolts early, although mine came right off at over 100k miles. But then I did use a 1/2 impact.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by modifry

 

RR, you mentioned Nascar earlier, and their "possible use of this lubricant", I am not doubting that is true, but are you also aware that Nascar coats the internals of their diffs. with silicone. Because of this they use very little fluid compared to production vehicles. Just food for thought. Thanks for all the help with everything.

Ryan B.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Highrpmek
RR, you mentioned Nascar earlier, and their "possible use of this lubricant", I am not doubting that is true, but are you also aware that Nascar coats the internals of their diffs. with silicone.

 

wow Road Rage, once again you made me go in a good way. you are the oil expert.

 

RR, I am very sorry to inform I was so wrong about the silicone, I was behind on some sleep when I wrote that, after further investigating my research I've found it is Teflon that is used to coat the internals, and this if for the internals of the Engine, Trans, and Rear Diff. I also came across a brief article further backing this theory up in a recent Road and Track issue, the one with the C6 vette and the 2005 mustand on the cover. Hope that clears up some of the confusion. The R&T article states that because the internals are coated in Teflon, and that race engines run so much cooler than production car engines, not nearly as much oils are needed. For the record, Dale Jr.'s car was one of the first cars to use these Teflon coated parts(engine bearings to be exact.) Sorry once again.


Ryan B.