Ever since the release of the S2000, I have been waiting to see what crazy things could be done to this car and one of them was Twin Turbo charging the 11.1 compression ratio 9 grand revving Beast. Now the biggest question of them all is, How do you get enough fuel to the manifold to mix with all that forced inducted air and correctly mix the two for a perfect combustion with out blowing up the awsome 240hp motor. I haven't really been able to find diagrams of the motor or specs on any of the components inside F20C1 motor. If anyone has any knowledge/expierence at all on turbo charging naturaly aspired engines or knows someone that can please e-mail me or respond to this Message.

Thanks,
Zas
tnipplesrus3430@aol.com

 

Build the lower end (Pistons, Crank, rods,sleeves), get 770cc fuel injectors, Speedcraft Turbo kit includes (fmu,turbo,manifold, intake piping, intercooler, tial wastegate and blowoff valve oil filter relocation kit misc. hoses etc.), Clutch Masters stage III clutch, Custom 3 inch mandrel bent piping, Head port and polished with over sized steel valves and stiffer springs, Stand alone ECU (AEM ems), Find someone who will strengthen the rear end of your S2000 (LSD, axle etc.), Rebuild the Transmission, Colder spark plugs, Stronger ignition spark (HKS twin power or some other brand.) Wider wheels and tires to somewhat hold you to the earth when driving your new beast, Roll cage, a Good health plan, a great Life Insurance plan, File for bankruptcy.



Did I miss anything?!

 

Do a search for "Speedcraft".

 

LOL!

Sounds like you've covered all bases.

 

Stage 4 clutch....not stage 3

 

stage 4 clutch is not a good idea...it will accelerat the demise of the drivetrain by increasing the violence. this is still a low torque motor with lightweight balanced drivetrain when FI...you need to accept a slippable clutch to protect shock to driveline. What is needed is longer wearing friction disc but never go to a more grabby disc....you'll be sorry. someone is suggesting the clutchmaster stage 1, i will look at it next clutch time

 

Do you know what you are talking about? The Stage 4 is a sprung puck clutch. I have one in my car right now. Being sprung allows it to take up some of the shock. With all the power baxdatass mentioned in his post, you would easily max out the Stage 3. I spent 2 hours on the phone with clutch masters and they felt that with my supercharger alone I was borderline between Stage 3 and Stage 4. Since I will be adding more power and since I track and auto x the car, they felt the Stage 4 was the best solution. Obviously more power and a grabbier clutch will send more shock to the rear end, that is why as baxdatass stated you strengthen the rear end!

Obviously if you can afford to do everything baxdatass listed you can afford to a. build up the driveline or b. break it and fix it and build it up then.

My plan is a Kaaz dif, and the comptech strengthening mod, along with new axels(custom or maybe CR-V axels).

Once you glaze a stage 3 clutch it will never be the same. Do your homework before you post. We aren't talking about a lightly modified S2000 here. Call up clutch masters, they know far more about this stuff than you or I do. Tell them you are going for 300+ horsepower and see which clutch they sugggest.

 

Hmm, Jenner makes sense here to me.
I have Star clutch stage 3 and I think visually it looks identical to Clutchmaster stage 3 clutch.
I broken in properly and driving around mildly for extra longer than recommended break-in mileage, and it certainly grabs better but as soon as weather is bit warm and I go all out with throttle, I still feel the clutch slips as I shift hard to 2nd gear. Engine still revs same to the red line but big loss in power and thrust momentum as soon as I shift from 1st to 2nd.
I certainly didn't expect that to happen once I upgraded. Oh well....

If this is indeed true and stage 3 is on borderline with 300Hp supercharger, I made serious mistake with choosing Star stage 3 without doing some extensive research by asking clutch experts.
I am certainly pushing lot more than 300hp, so I guess I am just stuck with this one until I wear it out.

By the way Jenner, your recent dyno graph is very impressive!
Maybe it is the clutch that you have giving you that good number from 6K and up.
How much was the Clutchmaster stage 4 anyway?

Thanks!

 

Thanks Randy. It's nice to think I didn't put a weeks worth of calling people, searching on s2ki.com and speaking with clutch masters for 2 hours over the course of 2-3 phone calls for nothing. I didn't want to buy something and have to upgrade again later, and I didn't want something that I couldn't live with on the street.(ie stage 5)



That's what my stage 4 looks like. The clutch masters Stage 3 is a complete circle. The Stage 4 is a sprung puck clutch so it doesn't have chatter, doesn't change the pedal feel, and doesn't slam into the drive line like a race puck does. For the first 1000 miles the Stage 4 is a bitch, very grabby and hard to feather, but once it breaks in it is awesome. It is a ceramic/metallic compound where the Stage 3 is carbon/kevlar. The stage 4 is sensitive to temperature as lower clutches are. Clutch masters has been around for over 25 years and has patented some really neat clutch technology.

[QUOTE]
I broke in properly and drove around mildly for extra longer than recommended break-in mileage, and it certainly grabs better but as soon as weather is bit warm and I go all out with throttle, I still feel the clutch slips as I shift hard to 2nd gear.

 

Hmm, wait a sec...
My Star clutch looks same as your Clutchmaster 4 version. Oh well I guess, looking same doesn't mean same with the performance.

Hmm, I didn't verify with the Star which material version I've got. Perhaps that has something to do with my disappointing performance from it.

Jenner, 200hp at mere 6K is very impressive. I would certainly celebrate with you once you rocket past 300hp mark! Once again proper tuning = excellent result. I wouldn't worry too much about not getting the peak hp higher, it all matters under the curve.

According to my dyno graph back in April, I am at 205 at 6Krpm, but that is with smaller pulley of 3.4 inch size. I am currently on 2.6 inch. But since fuel delivery is totally out of whack with RC 440cc injector I feel like my car performance has actually declined from when I had 3.4inch pulley with stock injectors and increased fuel pressure.

If all goes well, I guess I may see you at the Fall Colors and compare. But I don't think I will have the Air/fuel issue getting worked on before the meet. So my car would still be in limp mode at the meet.