Turbo s2000..let the problems begin..
I finally got the hybernating hooptie out of the shop with the following setup
gt35r ball bearing to4s cover and a .63 rear, Joe alaniz head work, inline pro's famous stainless steel head gasket(9:1 CR), precision 680cc injectors, aem ems, and aquamist (methanol injection). my plans where to tune the car up to 12 psi on pump gas, and to run it safe 14 psi on c16 race gas.Heres where the trouble begins
I purchased a greddy boost controller profec b spec 2 from a member here on the board (pappy) really kool guy...I ended up installing it about 5 months after.The story goes like this.As per my tuner due to the boost controller the car wont pass 10 psi..at times it didnt even go into boost. (by the way this is not to blame pappy this is to get inputs and opinions to correct the condition of the car).While making passes at the dyno the car will go in and out of boost a few times like it will go into 8-9 psi and drop to 5-6 while stepped on.There was a few times where my tuner played with the settings on the boost conrtoller and he was able to make a good pass however the car didnt want to pass 10 psi (map sensor was changed though) so the car made 352 rwhp @ 10psi ...breaking up.I took the car and the next day it spiked all the way to 15 psi so I paniced and let off the gas.Point is that my tuner wanted me to change the profec b spec 2 for the older version of it or the new profec type S which is similar to the original.I insisted into swapping out into another spec 2 cause my friend has another one on his car (turbo s2000 as well) and I want to see if the boost conrtoller is really my problem..
My concern is the following...if I would have had some one like torque freaks, or chris (cjb80) tune my car would they have been able to tune it properly, I basically felt as if the tuner did some what of a half fast job...I could be wrong though but its just what I feel. He only did about 15 passes....he street tuned it..I would say for about 15-20 miles so he basically finished in 2-3 hours, and I ve heard of ppl taking all day to tune a turbo set up.Either way my results are disappointing and now I after a few days of driving ..I am getting a humming whinning noise from the engine upon acceleration, a continous ticking noise which is very low pitched ans starts as soon as I hit boost (doesnt sound like pinging though), and the car doesnt start up right away it takes from 2-3 cranks to start at times (which may be normal but I ve heard differently,I ve heard that aem ems starts up perfectly) and today it started and shut off right away, I had to rev up the engine before it shut off again and keep it there for about 10 seconds to allow the car to stay on and the car was not cold at all, I mean I have no temp gauge but I was driving for about 20 minutes on the highway.Well as always any inputs, opinions, referals to nothing but great tuners, or anything at all than can help will be greatly appreciated.
sorry for such a long story
Thnks in advance
gt35r ball bearing to4s cover and a .63 rear, Joe alaniz head work, inline pro's famous stainless steel head gasket(9:1 CR), precision 680cc injectors, aem ems, and aquamist (methanol injection). my plans where to tune the car up to 12 psi on pump gas, and to run it safe 14 psi on c16 race gas.Heres where the trouble begins
I purchased a greddy boost controller profec b spec 2 from a member here on the board (pappy) really kool guy...I ended up installing it about 5 months after.The story goes like this.As per my tuner due to the boost controller the car wont pass 10 psi..at times it didnt even go into boost. (by the way this is not to blame pappy this is to get inputs and opinions to correct the condition of the car).While making passes at the dyno the car will go in and out of boost a few times like it will go into 8-9 psi and drop to 5-6 while stepped on.There was a few times where my tuner played with the settings on the boost conrtoller and he was able to make a good pass however the car didnt want to pass 10 psi (map sensor was changed though) so the car made 352 rwhp @ 10psi ...breaking up.I took the car and the next day it spiked all the way to 15 psi so I paniced and let off the gas.Point is that my tuner wanted me to change the profec b spec 2 for the older version of it or the new profec type S which is similar to the original.I insisted into swapping out into another spec 2 cause my friend has another one on his car (turbo s2000 as well) and I want to see if the boost conrtoller is really my problem..
My concern is the following...if I would have had some one like torque freaks, or chris (cjb80) tune my car would they have been able to tune it properly, I basically felt as if the tuner did some what of a half fast job...I could be wrong though but its just what I feel. He only did about 15 passes....he street tuned it..I would say for about 15-20 miles so he basically finished in 2-3 hours, and I ve heard of ppl taking all day to tune a turbo set up.Either way my results are disappointing and now I after a few days of driving ..I am getting a humming whinning noise from the engine upon acceleration, a continous ticking noise which is very low pitched ans starts as soon as I hit boost (doesnt sound like pinging though), and the car doesnt start up right away it takes from 2-3 cranks to start at times (which may be normal but I ve heard differently,I ve heard that aem ems starts up perfectly) and today it started and shut off right away, I had to rev up the engine before it shut off again and keep it there for about 10 seconds to allow the car to stay on and the car was not cold at all, I mean I have no temp gauge but I was driving for about 20 minutes on the highway.Well as always any inputs, opinions, referals to nothing but great tuners, or anything at all than can help will be greatly appreciated.
sorry for such a long story
Thnks in advance
The longer cranking and the temp gauge only showing one bar are normal AEM problems. 2-3 hours is insanely short time to tune it very well. Pappy is a good guy and if the boost controller is bad I'm sure Pappy didn't know it. Call or PM Chris and see what he says. You should be over 400 rwhp with your setup.
A ticking noise during acceleration is detonation. It doesn't sound like a "ping". (wonder why people call it that?) When I think of "ping" I think of the sound from a movie in a submarine.. ping... ping.. 
The wastegate/boost controller settings definetly need to be tweaked, and there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to have a consistant boost level.. unless the wastegate placement is hosed.
I can tune a car in 2-3 hours, but I am extremely quick with computers naturally, and I have tuned many s2000's..
Chris

The wastegate/boost controller settings definetly need to be tweaked, and there is no reason why you shouldn't be able to have a consistant boost level.. unless the wastegate placement is hosed.
I can tune a car in 2-3 hours, but I am extremely quick with computers naturally, and I have tuned many s2000's..
Chris
cjb80- As far as the ticking noise it only starts as soon as the car see's boost.If I accelerate under boost it wont happen.ya still think its detonation? Well either way chris I wanted to call you but I lost your number but yea I am extremely worried about the car overall, so I need to do what evers necassary to re tune or correct any problems causes this is my daily driver and it sucks being with out a car.Well if this tuner cant tune it properly with my friends boost controller I am definatley going to inquire elsewhere for my tuning.
jdmkid- thanks for the info, thats exactly whats happening to mine while making a pass it would go in and out of boost the dyno graph looked like the Mcdonalds arc repeating it self.I gotta wait to see what happens with the other boost controller but I really dont want to waste time anymore and I might as well end up going with another tuner if this persist.
Thanks again guys for all the helpful info any other comments or inputs feel free.
jdmkid- thanks for the info, thats exactly whats happening to mine while making a pass it would go in and out of boost the dyno graph looked like the Mcdonalds arc repeating it self.I gotta wait to see what happens with the other boost controller but I really dont want to waste time anymore and I might as well end up going with another tuner if this persist.
Thanks again guys for all the helpful info any other comments or inputs feel free.
fltsfshr- Thats exactly what I might be doing, I am going to wait to see what happens on tuesday with the boost conrtoller cause its going to suk having to pay twice to tune the car...but even if I have too I am going to have to waste more money but I just want to see what happens with my current tuner and go from there.Thnks for the heads up !
Originally Posted by 03S2KAY,Nov 27 2004, 07:43 PM
I am getting a humming whinning noise from the engine upon acceleration, a continous ticking noise which is very low pitched ans starts as soon as I hit boost (doesnt sound like pinging though), and the car doesnt start up right away it takes from 2-3 cranks to start at times (which may be normal but I ve heard differently,I ve heard that aem ems starts up perfectly)
The AEM EMS will crank longer before it starts. That is normal and I have yet to see one start on the first crank. If someone told you that theirs starts up like stock, they are lying. With the stock ECU, the fuel pump will turn on right away with the key in the run position. With the AEM system, there is a small pause, then the pump kicks in. If you don't allow the pump to kick in and you try to start the car, it will crank even longer. Good luck with your car man.
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Thanks for the info HBtos2k. Yea I knew from before its normal for the car to take 2 cranks to start but some ppl told me "oh it starts like stock" which I doubted anyways.The car at times starts up, revs up a lil to like 1400-1600 rpms and then jus goes down and shuts off on its own.I have to start it and give it a lil gas and hols the rpms at around 2500 inorder for it to stay on, and this isnt when the car is cold at all.It actually did it again today I parked at publix took about 10-15 minutes and when I go to start it...shuts right off after.I gave it a lil gas then its fine..but I then turned on the a/c and the car shut off again.Then after about 15 seconds of holding the throttle open at 3000 rpms it stayed on.I am basically upset cause I was with out a car for 7 months and I would expect it to be as close to perfect as possible but it aint.Hopefully my issues get correcteded soon if not I need to inquire on another tuner, possibly chris (cjb80).
If you can drive your car over here then I can look it over. Everything that you described will be easy to fix pretty quickly. I would not rev the car out again as it sounds like your tune is hosed. You should be OK cruising and light loads though.
I should be able to have everything cleaned up for you to drive home if you like. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor wired in to the car?
Chris
I should be able to have everything cleaned up for you to drive home if you like. Do you have a wideband o2 sensor wired in to the car?
Chris
do you have any datalogs of the boost problem? that would be the first place to check, If you do, email me them (masetuning@yahoo.com), id be happy to take a look, you can pretty much tell whats going on w/ the car.
chances are, the settings within the boost controller are not correct.
as far as the actual length of tuning, it really varies on the car, ive tuned probably over 100 turbo honda's, and each one varies, mostly due to mechanical or electrical issues the cars have.
many tuners, like myself, have so many well tuned maps, its easy to start off with a nice basemap, it makes tuning a breeze which drastically cuts back on the time needed to FULLY tune a car.
but even from starting from scratch (the aem startup calibration files are junk) it does not take long when you do it often.
chances are, the settings within the boost controller are not correct.
as far as the actual length of tuning, it really varies on the car, ive tuned probably over 100 turbo honda's, and each one varies, mostly due to mechanical or electrical issues the cars have.
many tuners, like myself, have so many well tuned maps, its easy to start off with a nice basemap, it makes tuning a breeze which drastically cuts back on the time needed to FULLY tune a car.
but even from starting from scratch (the aem startup calibration files are junk) it does not take long when you do it often.






