Look at those krank vents (ie two way check valves), I installed some krank vents on my AP1 and it eliminated all my oil comsumption, which wasn't bad to begin with 1/4 of a quart per change interval, but now, 5qts in 5 qts out.

No dipstick poppage for me...

 

Almostlude Posted on Jan 15 2010, 04:44 PM
Both KrankVents are one way / check valves
Both allow flow out of the engine and both block flow into the engine and thus make the intake manifold act as a vacuum pump.
The one on the breather tube (front one) is the bigger one, to allow any pressure build-up out without restriction if the intake manifold is in a non or low vacuum state, during steady throttle, constant speed.
In general, pressure build-up in the crank case (= under the valve cover and basically the inside of the engine) is caused by blow-by.
Also, other commercial available check valves need some pressure to open.
The KrankVents don't, according to the manufacturer, so they make sure there never is any pressure build-up in the crank case.
In the OEM situation the crank case has an open line into the tube between the air filter and throttle body.

I've used them on my MY00 engine and they did reduce oil consumption but haven't reinstalled them on my MY05 engine as that engine does not consume oil that much.
Amsoil SSO 0W-30.

 

Amsoil is solid, but im curious as to what the Auto RX is.

 

Yes I have replaced the PCV valve twice now and it did absolutely NOTHING to reduce my oil consumption.

My consumption is quite severe, about 1 quart per 500 miles if i VTEC on a regular basis. There is no smoking of any sort, so this leads me to believe that my cylinder walls may be scored/scuffed and the oil is getting past the rings and being burnt up in the combustion chamber.

This product claims to fill in the microscopic bores on the cylinder walls and thus reduce oil slippage past the rings in the cylinders.

I realize my motor likely needs a rebuild, and i plan on using this "engine restorer" product as a band-aid fix to try and slow down the oil consumption until my funds permit an engine rebuild.

And note that this product does not claim to be an "oil additive" in the traditional sense, but rather an engine additive as it does not claim to change any characteristics of the motor oil.

The way I see it for the price of a can of this stuff I've got nothing to lose in trying it, I was just hoping to get some feedback from somebody who used it on their s2k but it doesn't look like anybody here has.

 

Oh and to answer the rest of your questions SpitfireS, yes my setup looks exactly like that aside from the aluminum parts.

No my dipstick never pops out.

And i'm not sure on the flow question i've never removed the oil cap while the car was idling.

 

1qt per 500 miles? Your bores have more then microscopic issue. What is your oil consumption if you don't Vtec for 500 miles?

 

I have used restore in my engines for years... I can't say it helped any, but it certainly didn't hurt...

At your rate of consumption, it sure is worth a try!

Ps. I didn't notice if you use synthetic or not, if you are you should switch to regular, less blow by. and will probably show tell tale signs of smoke if you are burnnig the oil!

 

I'm not sure exactly as I have trouble going 500 miles without VTEC haha, but I have noticed a relationship between VTEC and oil consumption, it definitely burns a lot less if I don't VTEC. But I didn't buy this car to drive it conservatively so you can see why this is an issue!

If it's not the cylinder walls I'm not sure what else could be causing that much consumption, some people have said valve guides/seals, but I don't get a big a puff of smoke at cold startup which is characteristic of worn valve guides so who knows.

 

Just asking: there are no oil leaks?
As in: 100% sure?


1 quart / 500 miles is a lot, even for 90k miles AP1's.
Do you get smoke when you go off the throttle in gear for a couple of seconds and then on the throttle?
(IIRC that is the thing to look for when the valve stem seals are gone)
How is the rear of the car and the tail pipes?
Dirty, lots of black soot?

If the oil does not leak out or "evaporate" its being burned.
Either through the intake (PCV) or past the rings.
And a lot of oil being burned gives blue smoke.
How does one burn a quart of oil in 500 miles without seeing it somewhere?

One thing to remember is the FRM cylinder wall.
They are pretty tough & slippery and I'm not sure how well the engine restorer will hold on to it.

Let us know how / if it works for you.

 

I would suggest going to a 10w40 oil. A friend in his ap1 did just that and said that his oil consumption reduced dramatically.