bigfishs

OK, here goes with the saga, so stay with me. I have read most of the psots on CEL's/PO411 codes including how to reset it and the maint. reqd. light (very nice work gents/lasses).

Saw a 2001 S2K with 20000 miles for sale, compech s/c'ed from 3K, featured in car mag in 02 (I think it was sport compact car, title-yellow snow)

Mods include Biltz FMIC/BOV, 5 psi boost, cooler spark plugs etc, HKS headers, HKS power catback exhaust, A/F and boost autometer guages.

Asked a dealer in Long Island to check the car out, do compression test, make sure it would pass NY state inspection etc to make sure it was cool (I live 200 miles away form where I purchased it). Dealer reported all honda parts in excellent condition, needed new brakes and tires to pass inspection. Didnt charge anthing due to a week long free safety inspection deal.

Buy car. Get car home (without speeding tickets-need lazer jammer now, LOL) and give to local mechanic to fit new yoko's and hawk pads, and do NYS inspection. Car fails because of check engine light is not working (or removed) and PO411 code. Honda dealership which checked the car says never plugged into OBD2 port as CEL light was not on (Huntington honda, LI, that is why the light comes on in the first place when u turm the ignition! TWATS). So I am F*ed, no comeback for me as I should have had them do the inspection (I only asked them if it would pass, not to actually do it, am I the twat?) Lesson learned.

Anyway, the mechanic reset the ecu and told me to drive 30 miles and come back tommorow. He printed the 25 step check list which he will perform at 55 bucks per hour if the code reappears. He reckons the vacuum system is plumbed correctly and there are no leaks, and that the problem is the air control valve. It could also be the solenoid, air tank, poor electrical connections, all the other stuff on the 26 point list. What I need is for somebody (XVIPER you lor some of your knowledged counterpartss look like the people for the job) to check out the hose plumbing as I list below

All of the hoses look good apart from under the s/c, which has rubbed slightly at one hose. Also, I have never heard the BOV?

Air control valve, to lower line under fuel rail, to AVC solenoid (straight fitting), out via right angle fitting, into tank and out of tank to tee. One side of tee to fat end of check valve then to thin male end, then to BOV. Other side of tee to top fuel rail to another tee. One side of tee to RHS end intake man. Otherside to another tee. One side of tee to check valve (no suck), other to MAF sensor.

FPR to tee

one side to autometer boost guage, works ok
other to 2nd from RHS mainfold intake

Normally would be a problem, but have 10 days before failed inspection runs out, and cant drive my new precious!

Help!

xviper

I "think" I see your problem. I've bolded the phrase where I believe the fault begins. Check this Comptech manual (page 3) to see the proper routing of the hoses: http://www.comptechusa.com/instructions/ins072.pdf
After the hose leaves the tank, it needs to go directly to the white check valve BEFORE going to the "T". (Look at this thread to see how the check valve is pointed: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105368 )
It also seems, from your printed description that you've got hoses and "Ts" that aren't depicted in the Comptech manual. You'll need to trace them to find out where all that stuff goes.

bigfishs

Thanks for the tip. Really appreciate it. I wil reroute the tubing as you suggested, reset the ECU and see if the code reappears. I did try phoning comptech and looking at their descirptions, unfortunately the tech reps phone goes staight to voicemail (probably becuase he gets lots of annoying phonecalls from plebs like me).

bigfishs

Xviper,

U were dead on with the check valve being in wrong place. It should have been before the tee and not after it. Cleared the code. Noice

Thanks again