NO 1/2 drive torque wrench should be used in the bottom 10% of it range. You wont find this in the book, or anywhere. It comes with using them for 30 years.

If you set your wrench to 20 ft-lbs, and you put it on a bolt that is under capacity for the drive of the wrench (1/2" in your case) it will not click at 20. it will click way higher than that.

20 FT LBS is not 20 FT LBS when it comes to the CAPACITY of the bolt. Bolt capacity changes these identical factors.

Think about using a 1/4 drive torque wrench to tighen your lug nuts. You will never get them tight enough, but you will break your torque wrench. Because the 1/4 is UNDER capacity for that size fastener.

In your case, your wrench is OVER capacity and you broke the nut. Opposite of breaking the tool.

Get it?

 

Sad to say, this means all 16 of your rokers adjusters are seriously over torqued.

I am confident if you drive the car the top end will self destruct and the over torqued nuts will break the top of the adjuster off from the shock load.

 

Billman you just blew my mind and ruined my day within a 5 minute span of me reading this.

This is great info.

Luckily I only had to adjust cyl 1 and 2. 3 and 4 were left alone.

Is it possible to remove the retainer and spring to free up some space to remove the screw instead of removing the cams? Looking at the Helms Manual I am not really looking forward to having to remove the whole rocker assembly and cams.

thanks,
--Matt

 

Very few 1/2" drive torque wrench will dip down below 15 ft-lbs. The ones that do are either digital or beam, and they're also limited to about 150 ft-lbs. Snap On has a digital wrench that goes from 12.5-250 ft-lbs. That's a wide range that almost makes 3/8" drive redundant. Of course it's a heck a lot of money.

 

No.

All you need to remove are the 5 cam caps, then lift the cams out. should take you 20 minutes. The rockers, shafts, and lower cam support caps will stay in place.

Then you just swing each rocker up and take the adjuster screw out.

Be careful, as the VTEC pins will slide out. Lift all 3 rockers together to avoid this.

 

Indeed. I did not know this. Learn something every day. Thanks.

Roger that Billman. Appreciate the help.

 

Billman,

The Helms Manual mentions removing the TCT. Is this required or did you just leave that step out?

 

TCT does not need to be removed. That is only needed when you want to remove the camwheel or cylinder head.

 

Okay. I successfully replaced all the tappet nuts and screws on both cyl1 and 2. However. When I am attempting to assemble the cams and the cam caps onto head the 2 middle screws do not go down the entire way. It seems as if something rotated in the rocker arm assembly while I was adjusting the arms.




Does anyone have any idea how to get everything lines up properly? I can't find anything in the helms or online that even addresses this issue.

[attachment=22619:IMG_3325.JPG]


thanks.

 

I got the intake side to rotate back but the exhaust side will not budge... ughh