Lets imagine the hydraulics are ok and your clutch is on its way out.
That would mean the clutch plate is getting thin.
IMO that would mean it would disengage even more (with ok hydraulics)
This reasoning combined with the problems you describe leeds me to the thought the clutch hydraulics on your car are not ok.
Either not bled properly or bad master cylinder (where you see the "wet look")

Are you absolutely sure there is no air trapped in the clutch slave cylinder?
I have been reading that slave is not easy to bleed properly.
It involved jacking up the rear of the car to get the bleeder as high as possible.
If that doesnt work I've seen pictures of the slave cylinder off the transmission with the bleeder straight up to make sure no air is left behind.

Do some searching in the stickies on top of UTH, maybe the full procedure is there.

 

Thanks for the replies, I am thinking the same. We bled it, but I just didn't feel that confident with bleed. It seemed to go well, but you know, I like a better result. The pedal just didn't change. Really, it hasn't changed through this whole thing. But, it could have been a gradual change, and I am just used to it. I am going to look into that leak a liitle further.

Question? Will you see bubbles in the fluid if there is a leak? When you press the pedal. Is there a better way to test the Master and slave?
Thanks.

 

Please explain what you did here. The pedal adjustment is not something anyone should unless they know exactly what the consequences are.
Also, how is the tranny fluid level?

 

No, I'm pretty proficient with that clutch adjustment. And I've only done it micro movemment at a time. i marked it's original location, and have since moved it back. I did at one point move it to remove the tension and leave just a little play at the rod and top of the pedal. After all that, I just put it back in its original place. I used to do this on my MR-2 Turbo, when the clutch was going, (last resort). I never liked messing with that stuff usually, being a self adjusting hydraulic. I am at loss, and I figured, try it. It's really strange, cause sometimes, it shifts like when it was new, then you stop at a light, try to put in gear, feels like lockout, slowly moves into gear and try to crank-walk. Then i give it a little gas, goes away. Every other stop light is a gamble. No slip, never, just notchy to lockout shifting. Sux. Oh, tranny level new and full, then and now. Thanks.

 

I am having the exact same issue as you. I posted about a month ago. Needless to say I have a ACT street kit with lw flywheel on the way. Good luck!!

 

Ok, one more thing. I hate to bother everyone wih this problem. So thanks for any input. Sometimes I would rather ship my car to a current owner or someone who knows this car than take it to local dealership. They always seem to blame one thing and find others. So Thanks aain for all the input. It has helped.

 

MAKE sure the input shaft splines are thoroughly inspected upon install.

I may have to tear my transmission off again because of this.

I have the ACT HD PP kit as well.

 

Jasonoff: What is the issue with the input shaft splines? What caused this?

edited because it was making everyone else dumber Thanks for the diagram below

 

Have a read through my thread here. My clutch has been an ongoing issue since may

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=133&t=409647

I'm going to go with the grain of salt on that one . To the best of my knowledge the FD doesn't touch the fingers of the PP in the S2000. The TO bearing is what makes contact between the 2.

Anyhow even if it did and it was sticking to the PP fingers, with the clutch in the FD wouldn't be touching the FW, it would be pulled away right.

 

No fingers!


I'm guesssing the pressure plate also has a moving part, that "disk", that is pushed onto the clutch by the spring (fingers).
And therfore pulled away a bit by the throwout bearing when disengaging the clutch.